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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for some insight on my Hellion T76 cobra. The motor is stock and has 49k miles on it, with only about the last 500 miles with the turbo. Before the T76, I had a KB 2.8H running 20psi on 93 octane for the last 10k miles. I thought I noticed a tick this summer, but everyone thought I was crazy and said it was just the injectors. It has been really cold here lately (OH), and the car now has a definite concerning tick that quiets down once the motor warms up, but never goes away completely. I had it compression tested last week and all cylinders were ~169, except cylinder #5 with 120. Those were all dry numbers, a bit of oil bumped up cylinder 5 to 140. What do you all think, compression test showed nothing catastrophic and I would hate to spend more money this soon, but im pushing 720hp through it and I'd like to salvage everything from my motor before it really pops. Suggestions welcome.

Video of noise
 

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Anytime you do a warm compression test and the numbers are more than 14% off, its rebuild time. Putting oil in the cylinder and then shows an increase in compression tells you that your rings are shot. Get it honed, new rings, bearings, oil pump and have the heads done with new bronze valve guides, valve job, seals and you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anytime you do a warm compression test and the numbers are more than 14% off, its rebuild time. Putting oil in the cylinder and then shows an increase in compression tells you that your rings are shot. Get it honed, new rings, bearings, oil pump and have the heads done with new bronze valve guides, valve job, seals and you should be good to go.
Yeah my local shop said just about the same, though I'd probably just throw new pistons, honed, oil pump, and call it a day. It has the revised heads, and I am content with my power levels, I just want a fresh motor that I don't have to fret about. Granted, I have been beating on it pretty hard with 20#'s and pump gas, so none of this has come as a surprise. It's a ticking a timebomb, only a matter of time.
 

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You sound to know whats going on. If your short on cash you can try and push it out but are only risking a bigger expense later on down the road. If you screw something bad and need a new block or bend a rod and chew the crank up.

The second I knew my car had an issue I stopped driving it instantly. It proved to be the best for me as now I have a very cheap rebuild ahead of me. New pistons, beaings, oil pump and Im back on the road. However I would expect to be about $1000 out of pocket and Im doing the work myself, so add what ever the shop is charging you to do the labor. I also am going to need a new clutch.

However headgaskets, bolts or studs, fluids, oil pump, bearings, pistons, rings, it all adds up QUICK!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You sound to know whats going on. If your short on cash you can try and push it out but are only risking a bigger expense later on down the road. If you screw something bad and need a new block or bend a rod and chew the crank up.

The second I knew my car had an issue I stopped driving it instantly. It proved to be the best for me as now I have a very cheap rebuild ahead of me. New pistons, beaings, oil pump and Im back on the road. However I would expect to be about $1000 out of pocket and Im doing the work myself, so add what ever the shop is charging you to do the labor. I also am going to need a new clutch.

However headgaskets, bolts or studs, fluids, oil pump, bearings, pistons, rings, it all adds up QUICK!
Yeah I hear you, I am awaiting a quote of from my shop to get it rebuilt. It's not that I don't have the cash, I am just reluctant to throw more money into the car already. And yes it adds up quick, thats why I just plan on a fresh rebuild with stout pistons, 720rwhp is enough for me. Most likely I'll have it rebuilt asap so I can get it out and enjoy it this spring, I don't think I could let it ride as is and feel comfortable about it.
 
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