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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have been having a problem with my T56 latley. I had a new one installed under warranty last December for a broken TOB retainer. The new trans did not shift nearly as good as my original trans. It was hard getting into first and reverse the first day. It wouldn't grind but took a little fishing to get it into gear. I started noticing right after I made a pass at the drag strip I would have trouble getting the car in reverse. After it sat awhile it was fine. I have all the basic bolt-ons with a 2.80 pulley and run ET Streets at the track so the car is beat on a little. This past Thursday at a 1/8 track after making two back to back runs it would not go into reverse period. I drove into town about 10 miles and it finally would go but was fairly hard. I pulled the shifter off the next morning. I couldn't find anything. I put the stock shifter back on and it was still hard to get into reverse. There is a plunger on the left side of the trans that I assume is a reverse lock out. The block on the trans shifter that recieves the ball on the shifter handle swings over into this plunger and compresses it when you go into reverse. It seems to have more than the normal amount of spring force. I put the 5.0 shifter back on and it seemed to be about normal for the new trans. I asked about the clutch cable problem some have had and I thought that may be some of my problem.

The car had been shifting really well the last few days. But, last night when I got home I tried to put the car in reverse with the engine off and it was real hard to push the shifter over inline to go in reverse. It felt like the plunger was really fighting the shifter but I figured it could be internally also. If I started the engine it would push all the way to the right very easily and then go right into gear. But turn the engine off and it was hell. I could push the shifter over and hold it while I turned the engine off and as long as I didn't let the handle move all the way off the plunger, it was easy. But if I let it off the plunger then it was tight going back. I later went into town that night and it was the same. When I got home I turned off the car and the shifter was still hard. Then I thought about just turning the key to the "on" position without starting the engine. When I did the shifter was easy and smooth like normal. The plunger looks like it may have a coil on it. It has an electrical connection. It almost seems it has voltage on it with the key off or it is tight with the key off for some reason. I'll have to see if I can pop off the connector from underneath the car and check it.

Does anyone know what this may be? I hate to take it to the dealer right now if it's something I've done and can fix myself. It probably is a warranty issue though now that it seems to be the plunger I guess. I don't see how th ekey in the "On" position could have an effect on the internal part of the T56.
 

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I had the same problem. After I went to a clutch qaudrent setup it stop the problem. My replacement tranny was stiff shifting too. Put in GM syncromesh and a little friction modifier and it's smooth as silk now.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It really shifts fine. The problem is pushing the shifter over to get inline with the gate to go in reverse. I think some of the reason I have trouble getting it in reverse at the track is because it is so hard to push the shifter over to the gate I'm not all the way over before I try to push the shifter forward. I can try the clutch quadrant. I was going to get one someday anyway.

I want to try to fix this myself. I won't ever take my 03 back to my original dealer. They will fix just about anything but they are real jerks. The other dealer I took my 03 will fix anything but the quality of their work is very poor. I mean anything under warranty. They installed a Spec II in my buddy's 03 and he burned it up and they replaced it under warranty. I was happy for him but I couldn't believe it. Everytime he takes it over there they end up replacing head lamps, fog lights etc. They are the ones that replaced my T56 for the broken TOB. When I went to pick it up they asked me if I knew I had a pinion gear seal leak. I said I may have had a small leak. The advisor knew I had 4.10 gears. He's an 03 nut and he's planning on getting one. He aked me everything about my car when I dropped it off. He said they found my pinion nut was loose so they pulled the flange and put a new seal on it. Man I was pissed even thought they did it under warranty. It should have not been repaired under warranty because I installed the 4.10's. I didn't say anything. I didn't think you could just pull the flange because I've been told not to reuse the crush sleeve. I wondered how they could have checked the torque on the nut with the drive train hanging out of the differential. I knew I was in for problems. I noticed when I was cleaning the underneath of my car before I took it to the dealer I had a very small film of oil on the bottom of the diff. I packed the pinion seal with grease when I installed the 4.10's and I hoped it was the grease breaking down from the heat. I figured that is was so small that it wouldn't be a problem for a long time. I was not concerened. After I got the car back from the dealer about a week later I noticed my exhaust had brown stuff all over it. I got up under it and I no longer had a film I had a Niagra. I was planning on swapping the 4.10's out to 3.90's so that tempered my anger but it just amazes me how incompetent som dealers are no matter how big they are. The first place it wasn't warranty, the second they should have asked me first and the third I don't think that is a standard practise to replace a seal like that. When I pulled the rear for the 3.90 gears I couldn't even turn the flange using both hands with all my strength. I couldn't believe the beqarings hadn't failed when I tore it down. I put new bearings in it like I always do. If I have to take it to the dealer I'll have to find another one. I can't trust these guys.
 

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93 Cobra nice ets and mph's whats your recipe to get that close to 125????
 

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Ford is replacing my trans right now..per the broken retainer sleave....I talked with my tech he has a '03 also...he said he would install my Amazon Racing T-56 shifter along with the new tranny...my Q is where do I get a good ajustable clutch quadrant cable and how much...if I can get one before the trans comes maybe he will install that too...
 

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I just ordered UPR's quadrant ajuster....it came to $99.95...has anyone used these, looks like a quality piece.
 

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I have one. You'll need to do something about the bolt head on the adjuster. The locking ring hits the stock bolt head before it actually locks. I used a spacer to space the lock ring away from the head.

I like the quadrant alot.
 

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what size spacer will i need?
 

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Alaskan Assasin said:
what size spacer will i need?
I just used a big washer that fit over the adjuster. It was probably 3/16" thick. But you do give up that 3/16" of adjustment up if you need it screwed all the way in.

I'm the only one I've seen use the spacer to deal with the bolt, most just go to a different bolt design.
 

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Thanks I will keep that in mind
 

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trey193 said:
93 Cobra nice ets and mph's whats your recipe to get that close to 125????
I have a 2.80 pulley, full Mac exhaust, chip, K&N CAI, and a 60 shot. I have ran [email protected] without the nitrous and BFG drag radials, And have only made one or two passes on the srpay so I know it will run high 10's with a slick and a decent hooking track.
 

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mid 11's at over 120 is about what I want to run this year...I now have solved my tractions issues I had last year when I ran my 12.4....so with the awesome air we get in Alaska I am hoping for some good times with my listed mods...
 

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I am not sure if it is like this with the Cobra T56, but with some systems it will be difficult to put the car in reverse with the engine off because of the lockout system. Some systems detect when the engine is running and the vehicle is not moving, the reverse lockout is de-activated and you can shift into reverse. When you are going down the road the reverse lockout is energized to keep one from shifting into reverse by mistake. This has the same resistance as when you have the engine off and try to put it in reverse, you can force it into reverse but it is very dificult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have my buddies 03 at my home to bolt on some mods and you are right. The lockout does prevent the shifter from moving all the way over. I guess I never realized it. But, mine is about three times stiffer than my buddies and it does it sometimes while the engine is runnig. I'm sure it's electrical. We were going to run last night, the first time since I had the problem but it was rained out. My buddy just got a set of 28x11.5x16 ET Streets and he was going to loan them to me. I think with my 3.90's I may lay down some serious trap speed if I can redline. I had 4.10's before I swapped to the 3.90's. If I had known MT was going to come out with a 28 inch tall 16 inch tire I would have left them in the rear. I trapped 99.3 a few weeks ago. I doubt I can get to redline in third with the 28 inch tires but I should be able to trap well over 100. Maybe.
 

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Yep they should be able to figure out the problem, but does sound like it might be electrical. I have not done much with mine yet but plan to drag it after at least getting a pulley change and catback.
 
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