Mustang and Ford Performance Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
The BarTender
Joined
·
1,651 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking about how to lighten my cobra a bit. What is the wieght difference between a a tubular K-member and the stock piece? Is it really worth it to do? Will it effect the streetability of the car at all? Lastly, what about adding A-arms to the package as well? Any advice is appreciated.;)

Razor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
I put a Griggs K member, A Arms, and Griggs bilet aluminum CC plates, and coil over springs on my 98 Cobra (recently sold). The total weight saving was about 65 lbs (5 from Griggs CC plates VS Steeda plates). The front wheels were moved foward about 1 inch (transferred a tad of weight toward the rear) and out about 1/8" on each side. It gave about 8 degrees positive caster.

Handling was fantastic, but did pick up a few squeeks and clunks when cold. All metal to metal contact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
IMO the Griggs and Maximum are the better versions of what is out there.

If you have the money, go with the Griggs.
If you need to conserve a little, go with the MM.

I installed the Griggs in my last car, the MM in the new '00GT. We have installed a few D&D units and I would not say they are comparable when used in a street driven or road race application.

$.03
 

·
The BarTender
Joined
·
1,651 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
snkypete said:
IMO the Griggs and Maximum are the better versions of what is out there.

If you have the money, go with the Griggs.
If you need to conserve a little, go with the MM.

I installed the Griggs in my last car, the MM in the new '00GT. We have installed a few D&D units and I would not say they are comparable when used in a street driven or road race application.

$.03
The D&D unit is actually what caught my attention. Are you saying that they aren't great for the street? I'm not a road racer racer whatsoever, I'm just looking to drop some wieght on my daily driver/Weekend warrior. If I am only to see a 65lb. wieght reduction from the K-Member then it might not be worth it to me at this point. Let me know what you think.

P.S. Thanks Ralph for your input as well.;)

Razor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
I just have issues with their pieces and designs.....plenty of people run it without issues....I prefer to always err on the side of caution and 'overkill' - especially in crucial areas.

Some people drive a Ferrari, others drive a Kia and are perfectly happy with it :D

Their website is being updated, but look any of the 'knock offs' and then compare them to Griggs and MM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have the D&D k-member matched w/MM a-arms and have had no problems at all. The weight difference for the D&D over the Griggs or MM k-members is quite large.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
That there is.....and there is a reason for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
akatherazor4 said:
I was thinking about how to lighten my cobra a bit. What is the wieght difference between a a tubular K-member and the stock piece? Is it really worth it to do? Will it effect the streetability of the car at all? Lastly, what about adding A-arms to the package as well? Any advice is appreciated.;)

Razor.
The Performance Automotive tubular K-member I'm installing next week weighs ~ 21 lbs, which is a 30 lb weight savings over the Ford part. MM A-arms save another 13 lbs per pair. Coil-over conversion saves ??? lbs.

I think the total weight savings would be ~ 60 - 70 lbs. I weighed my car (with a full tank of gas), and I'm at 3550lbs. I'm going to re-weigh it (again, with a full tank of gas) right after the K-member swap to verify the weight savings.

I personally wouldn't do the K-member swap & re-install the stock A-arms, but some K-members will allow you to retain the stock Ford arms. That's just my opinion though.

I've seen a Griggs unit up-close, and the PA part I purchased looks EXTREMELY similar & VERY BEEFY.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
Another benefit to the K-member:

If you get coil-overs at the same time, your ride height & front suspension are now adjustable. This was one of the main reasons I did the conversion - so I could set my front-end ride height to whatever I wanted (within reason of course). Swapping-out front springs is cheap & easy too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
Here's a shot of the PA K-member:


Here's another installed on my car:


Side view (I can finally see & access the JBA headers!):
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
the weight savings is fantastic...also because its in the front where you want it. Personally, I am going to do it as soon as I get off my butt. There are so many benefits to it that it almost HAS to be done.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top