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1965 Superformance 427 Cobra, & 2022 BMW M850
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It looks like you are dotting all the I's and crossing all the T's, Tommy. You probably have already attended to what I am about to show you but, on the outside chance you have not gotten to it yet here's a reminder or two.

Under the General Settings drop down menu and in the of the Basic Load Settings section be sure to set your Stoiciometric AFR to 14.1 for an E-10 gasoline instead of 14.7 for an E-0 gasoline

Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel Number

14.7 is for E-0 gasoline and virtually all pump gas today is E-10 which has a Stoichiometric point of 14.1. The 14.1 stoich point will be important for the ECU's flex fuel calculations as well and the AFRs it computes for the varying degrees of ethanol in the fuel mix. Once you are using E-10 the maps for AFR will also change because of the new stoich point. I have a preference for using lambda instead of AFR because it is easier to richen a specific percentage amount than it would be using AFR. Here is an AFR table with lambda equivalents for various fuels. Notice the red boxes and warnings about going leaner. That is the line in the sand, so to speak, for E-10 is 11.2 in AFR terms and 0.8 in lambda terms.

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A couple of additional thoughts, in closed loop the ECU will use the trim tables to adjust the running tune from what you called out to what the oxygen sensor tells it is correct. You can look at the trim table correction and use them to bring your base fuel map closer to the mark and then go out and road test again. Each time you do this you will get progressively closer to optimum - stop when you are satisfied or tired whichever comes first.

Another helpful start up aid in laying out your fuel maps is to cheat and lift the maps Ford used in the 03/04 Cobra ECU. Try to get one with the AMZ1 or 2 strategy codes if you choose to do this. The AMZ1 and 2 strategies were the last fueling maps Ford did for the engine. This will shorten the time you spend trying to build your own maps.

Very nice work so far, big congrats on the effort and results.

Ed

p.s. Almost forgot your idle problems could either be the IAC valve / setup or the cams you are running. There are analog and digital IAC valves. Make sure the one you are using matches how you set the MS3 software up - it can handle both types. Try to get the engine to idle correctly with the IAC disconnected and adjusting just the throttle stop to produce the idle you want. Once you have the idle then reconnect the IAC plug.

If the idle problems are reversion related because of camshaft phasing induced overlap they will be more difficult to correct. The problem is that the reversion sends an air pulse backwards across the MAF when the air is drawn across the MAF one more time on the way into the engine it is counted a second time. The ECU sees twice the air it should and sends twice the fuel it should. The oxygen sensor(s) immediately see a rich engine and tell the ECU which pulls back on the fuel and you begin the maddening idle surge cycle.

If that is the problem the best fix for it is to replace the MAF with a PRO-M 92. Here are two short 4 minute videos about why you want the PRO-M 92 MAF for one of our engines. I'll cheat a little bit and suggest that the wandering voltage signal in the first vid causes the ECU to chase the apparently changing air flow being reported by adjusting the injector pulse widths to compensate for the fuel volume the wandering voltage signal appears to say is necessary. This is obviously the wrong way to go about addressing the situation if the air mass being drawn in is not changing. Rather than review the video message here, it is better watch both vids (one follows the other). They do a much better job of telling the story., Click here => Pro-M Mass Air Meter Signal Quality Vid

It turns out the second vid no longer follows the first vid so here is the link to vid #2, Click Here => Pro-M Mass Air Meter Signal Quality Vid Part 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Well things were going to good and the car gods had to smite me with a setback. I had the car running and had two drives on it making great progress on dialing in the tune. Then I had an idler pulley that had the bolt loosen up. While I was taking the pulley off I noticed the blower making a weird noise when the belt spun it. I took the inlet boot off to find this.
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I bought this unit used over 2 years ago, it was supposed to have been rebuilt at that time. The internals and seals looked fine so I had no reason to doubt that. Well somehow the impeller bolt/nut backed off and trashed the impeller and damaged the housing. I never heard it happen and the car still made boost. No chunks came off the impeller and only a very fine mist made it past the intercooler. The motor appears to be unscathed via a plug check and a bore scope into the cylinders. I am currently looking into options for rebuilds and/or replacement parts. I am worried the volute is to damaged to save and obviously the impeller is shot. The impeller seal was also leaking after maybe 100 miles of driving so that will have to be replaced as well. I believe this is an older Gen 1 unit based off the serial number so I am worried about the ability to source a new volute if needed. In the mean time I ordered some npt caps to close off the -AN oil feed lines and am going to continue to drive the car and get more familiar with the ms3pro.
 

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1965 Superformance 427 Cobra, & 2022 BMW M850
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That's a bummer Tommy! that fastener is too small to depend on tightening torque to maintain it. Whoever rebuilt the unit could have done you a favor by using LocTite[SUP]®[/SUP] Just looking at the damage it might be cheaper to replace the entire head unit. Check new vs rebuilt pricing. The other benefit to a more current head unit is replacement part availability.

Although the bore scope gave you a good to go report you ought to also do a leak down test to be certain the cylinders and valve seats are OK. When yo do the test try to borrow one of the older Sun Electric testers if you can find on or a Snap-On tester. The generally available aftermarket units from everyone else do not accurately measure low leak percentages in the 0 to 10% range where the engine ought to be. They will give yo a false positive for good cylinder condition when the Sun and Snap-On tools will not.

Feel bad for you because none of that was your doing. Whoever rebuilt the head unit did not properly secure that fastener!

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
It was certainly a big unwelcome supprise. I'll be picking up a leak down tester from a friend this weekend to further verify engine health. I'm not to concerned however the dusting on the post intercooler piping was minimal at most and extremely fine. So barring build up on the valve seats I should be OK.

I've looked into rebuilds and superchargerrebuilds should be around 1000 depending on if I do new bearings and which bearings I would go with. A new head unit from what I saw was north of 3000. The only downside to going to a newer unit is I believe I have a first gen unit that should flow ~1700cfm. From my reading the second gen units are only rated for 1400cfm. If that is the case I'll spend the money to upgrade the older unit. I'm still waiting on emails back from two rebuilders to decide who I end up going with and what my direction will be though.

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If you can get out alive for $1K that is the way to go for sure. AJ recently had his Whipple freshened and that was just over $1K w/o requiring hard parts other than seals and bearings. I would definitely replace the bearings in your compressor with the best I could afford to put in whenever you freshen the unit. Reusing old bearings even if they were OK at the time of the rebuild is just asking to get bit one more time — especially on centrifugal compressors. The bearings see insanely high operating speeds and it is always a good practice to start out with the best fresh bearings you can afford there, just because ...


Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Got the leak down test and comp test done today. Motor was completely cold since I can't start it right now.
Leak down test result
Cyl. Cyl.
1-8% 5-8%
2-8% 6-6%
3-7% 7-8%
4-6% 8-4%

Also did a comp test while I had all the plugs out.
Cyl. Cyl.
1-200 5-195
2-195 6-200
3-195 7-195
4-195 8-210
 

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1965 Superformance 427 Cobra, & 2022 BMW M850
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Looks like you dodged a bullet, Tommy. Those numbers are excellent — especially cold. Good show! That just leaves the PITA compressor rebuild to wrestle with.


Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Got word from Jon Bond yesterday that my blower was not salvageable. In addition to the impeller and volute damage a bearing was installed incorrectly that resulted in a damaged brass cage that would have cause catastrophic failure had I run the unit for a long period of time. Also at some point there was some miss alignment of the output shaft that caused irregular wear on the gear set. I believe all of the gear set damage occurred before my ownership as I had no irregular or excessive noises for the short time it was on the car.

Fortunately there was a head-unit with brackets that popped up on ebay late last week that I scooped up this morning after verifying mine was an expensive paperweight at this point. I was on the fence about buying another used unit but you can bet i'm going to check the impeller nut on this one this go around. The unit I just purchased looks to be in better shape as well.

In the mean time I've been taking car of other small issues with the car. I removed the dallas mustang speedcal box in favor of using the speed in/out on the ms3. I was on my 3rd speedcal and this one was randomly dropping signal above 60 mph for some reason. Fixed an exhaust leak, installed prothane trans mount to match the motor mounts, and a new upper and lower shifter boot as well as cobra bob shifter gasket. Currently getting the a/c back up and running. When charging the system I was running into issues with the clutch slipping on the pulley. I am accounting this to using the junkyard 8 rib pulleys and having a worn out clutch face so i'll be ordering new pulley and clutch this week.

The car has been down so long and keeping me in the garage so much my wife asked why I don't just get rid of it and get a cts-v. I did not have a good answer for her....
 

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That's a bummer Tommy! Sometimes the risk associated with acquiring used pieces make new ones look more attractive.

It sounds like you are doing your homework this time. Be sure to check everything about the compressor. You might want to have Jon Bond give it a once over to see if anything is arty before you install it on the engine. At least if there is you can go back to the seller and ask for help.


Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Well after a few debacles involving used superchargers I finally was able to get it running with another blower. I've got a few drives on this one with no major issues so far. The single 50mm wastegate however is not large enough to restrict the boost to what I had originally planned. I had hopped to only make ~6 lbs so I could safely mess with the 93 vs e85 tune and not have any issues with detonation. So far I have hit 9.5lbs at about 5600 rpm with a 3lb spring in the wastegate, I had the boost cut set at 9.5 lbs is the reason it stopped there. I have a pulley making contact with the alternator I need to address and I want to redo some of the coolant lines to get rid of the big loop going under the head unit. I just filled the tank and washed it to put up for the winter so I likely won't be able to mess with the tune at all till spring unless I trailer it to a dyno to have the tune 100% dialed in. Took a video of it idling to get it up to temp before shutting it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
Been a while since I updated the thread over on this forum. Been half assed keeping it updated on SVTP but im going to try and copy paste over here and replace picture links real quick.

While it was put away for the winter I decided to upgrade the front brakes to the ATS brembos. Picked up a used set off ebay, got both for under $100 shipped.
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I sand blasted them to prep for high temp vht paint.
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My plan was to paint black, install a decall, paint red and remove the decal then clear coat over everything.
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Unfortunately that did not pan out and when I removed the red decal it pulled some of the red paint with it so I went to plan B which was just paint red with a high temp decal on top.
Coated in red after being baked.
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Installed on the car with the black decals
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When getting the car ready to get out in the spring I finally removed the painters tape that had been on the core support for way to long. Unfortunately it took a good amount of gloss black with it. After trying unsuccessfully to rattle can it black it was suggested by a friend that I paint it wrinkle to match a few of things in the engine bay and to make it a little more durable. I ended up with this and was pretty happy with the result.
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Late in January I also upgraded the tow rig. As much as I loved the 7.3 trucks I wanted to start with a rust free platform. Picked up a 2015 f350 lariat ultimate with 42k on the clock and absolutely spotless. Truck as tuned and deleted before it hit 1000 miles and is blast to drive, maybe a little to much so. Took my motivation away from the car for a while. White mirrors came with the truck and I initially wasn't a fan but they have grown on me.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Most of 2020 the car has been running great with relatively few issues. I've been slowly adding features to the MS3 and fine tuning the tuning.
One goal I had was to get the two step/ no lift shift working.
The factory clutch switch wouldn't work because the polarity was reversed for the switch at the top of the movement. So iImade a bracket that used a brake light switch off of who knows what. I bought a few from the autoparts store and picked the one that worked the best.
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It uses the factory brake switch mounting holes and is adjustable to fine tune the switching point on the clutch.

Video of testing.
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It builds about 4 lbs of boost at 3500 rpms and sounds pretty wicked.

A buddy wanted to get together to grab a few beers and take some video / pictures of the car and I was happy to oblige. In the startup in the video it looks like the catch can is smoking a ton but it was an unbelievably hot and humid summer day in Missouri that cause a bunch of condensation. I have yet to get any oil drain from the catch can.
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In the acceleration portion of the video you might notice i'm shifting super early. I noticed early in the summer that when running on e85 fuel pressure started dropping around 5300 and became a real issue with afr's by 5700 so I had the limiter set at 5500 which is right when things really start getting fun.
He also took a few glamor shots


IMG_0002_4mb.JPG

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
As I started trying to tune on e85 and make use of the flex fuel sensor I routinely experienced fuel pressure dropping off after 5000 rpms and the afrs start creeping up after 5500 rpms. The fuel system at this stage consisted of the stock system with a 450lph in tank and 80lb sd injectors.

Hoping to try and limp the system along for the year I made a few upgrades.
Hard to see in the picture but I ran a dedicated 8ga power line from the aux fuse box to a relay for the 450 pump thinking I may me getting some voltage drop through the factory wiring.
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I also replaced the factory regulator and fuel rails. I went with a fuelab regulator 10an feed from the regulator split to 2x 8an lines to fore rails in a dead head configuration. I know the dead isn't ideal but I'm hoping i can make it work due to the cleanliness it provides vs other routing options.

Everything tucked up nicely in the passenger fender well and should allow me to adapt to a full fuel system pretty easily at a later date.
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Bracket for the regulator to mount to the inner fender
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If you can manage to ignore the ugly inner fender the regulator is in there tight and doesn't contact the fender liner when installed. The factory feed line come up in the oem location where I cut the tubing shortened it about 10" and joined back up with a compression fitting. This allowed me to use an adapter to go to a 6an feed line to the regulator. The return from the regulator is 8an going to the flex fuel sensor and then to the factory return line.
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All this helped with the fuel pressure/afr issue but only netted me about 200 more rpms. I also was experiencing a wicked pressure drop when able to hook on a launch on the shifts that was causing the afr safey to trip and shut the car down. I think I'm just maxing out what is capable of the factory feed line on e85 at this point. I'm estimating it is around 550 whp at this boost level even with shifting early.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I think I've mentioned it before but I don't know how other guys keep day to day build threads going. I noticed a leak at the axle seal after a spirited drive last summer. I had replaced the seal once before for leaking and suspected something else was up. I believe the gear fluid was sloshing into the bearing on hard turns and sitting in the portion between the 9" end. After a while it started to weep through the sealed bearing, diluting the grease and leaking through. Slowly wearing out the bearing as the grease leaked out.
Here's how the axle looked when i pulled it. You can see and the grease that leaked out.
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I also noticed that the bearing retainer on the passenger side was grinding against the inside id of the axle tube. I think this was due to it not being cut back enough when it was fabed years ago. I took a carbide burr to the id of the tube to create some more clearance
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In order to prevent any more oil from getting to the sealed bearing I also cleaned the tubes and installed some seals-it generic axle seals sealed up with some rtv
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Even if it doesn't keep all the fluid from sloshing to the bearing it should reduce it. So far in the last year I haven't had any issues.
While the car was down waiting for the new bearings to come in I pulled the volute off the blower.
Since I bought it used it had a few scuffs a few of which were beyond sanding out.
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I tried filling it in with low temp aluminum braze. Stuck it in a toaster oven to up the base temp then used a torch to work in the braze rod.
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After filling it in I sanded it down. I was hoping it would be able to polish it but the braze rod was a slightly different color
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So instead I threw it in the sand blaster.
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And gave it a coat of wrinkle paint to match several other things in the bay.
175739
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Over the winter I took the plunge in replacing the rest of the fuel system. Ended up going with a fuelab 42401 pump with fuelab pre and post filters. Plan was a glenns performance sleeper tank feeding a -10 supply to an inline motion raceworks e85 sensor block to the fuelab regulator I had already installed returning to the tank with -8, everything in e85 safe ptfe line.
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Problems started pretty quick, Glenns tank put the feed straight into the exhaust.

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I ended up cutting it off and having a piece of bent 90° tubing welded on to send the output away from the exhaust but forgot to grab pictures. Unfortunately I also found some rust when I pulled the tank which snowballed into another project entirely. Most of it was just surface rust under the car but I found one section under the driver impact absorber mount that was pretty bad. I ended up cutting it out and replacing it.
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From there the snowballing continued. I tapped off the back half of the car and set up a proper ******* paint booth.
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Spent a while wire wheeling/ sanding from the lower control arm mount back and got it prepped it for primmer.
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Two coats of primer later and were looking like this
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I ended up using a tractor and implement paint for the primer and satin black top coat. The top coat uses a catalyst hardener and should be a pretty durable coating for the bottom of the car, especially considering I never drive the damn thing.
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With the bottom of the car taken car of I was able to start working on the fuel pump mock up. I was worried about the pump being to loud since this is a 95% a street car so i bought some rubber vibration isolators to mounts the pump and filters to.
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I wanted to mount the pump and filters on the front of the tank behind the axle rather. I planned on using a stainless plate to avoid any corrosion issues down the road. Ended up with this arrangement after a few iterations. You can also see the new feed arrangement from the tank in this picture.
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The stainless plate I had to mount the pump assembly to was spaced off the tank the same amount the isolators were to get an accurate position. I marked the positions of everything then drilled and tapped everything in the drill press.
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Tapping the plate allowed me to thread all of the isolators into the plate.
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I ground all of the isolators short on the one side then welded them to the plate and ground them flush.
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Welded the plate up to the tank, capped the feed line then filled the tank with water to check for leaks.
175759

NO LEAKS!!
So I mocked up the tank cover and clearanced the cover for all of the filter/pump mounts.
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I also added foam strips to the top of the tank in the stock arrangement to limit vibrations and harmonics.
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With the new tank and other components I also decided to whip up some new stainless tank straps. Made them from 10ga 316.
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Clearance between the filters and diff cover.
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New straps looking fresh
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View from the driver side and from lower under passenger side
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Pretty happy with how everything turned out. It sits up higher than the tank to avoid any road debris, plenty of clearance to the diff and should provide enough room to service filters as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Line coming out of the post filter. I wrapped this in high temp fuel sleeve but did grab pictures. You can also see the return line running up on top of the tank. I also ran a e85 compatible hose from the return on top of the tank into the fuel basket inside the tank in order to help prevent starvation.
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Supply and return running up over the axle
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Down near where the muffler sits. Both supply and return got heat sleeving here as well but I again forgot pictures.
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Cuts above the sub frame connector then runs down the hammers pinch weld.
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Runs up the pinch seam to the motion raceworks inline ethanol sensor housing. I wasn't to thrilled with the sensor being under the car right behind the tire so I used some kidex to make a cover for it that I think turned out pretty good.

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It zipties to the housing and tucks up very nicely.
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Then up to the regulator like before. Return follows the supply back to the tank.
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I was still having issues with a lean spot in the lower part of the fuel map and issue with power falling off above ~6500rpm. Duty cycle of the 80lb injectors was up around 95% at 6500 rpm so I bought a set of Bosch 210lb injectors and height adapters and clips along with a set of adapters to go from ev6 to denso adapters. I liked this particular set of height adapters because they incorporated an inlet filter into them. Many of the cheaper ones don't. the hat is crooked in the picture because I was seeing how much the hat could tilt on the injector

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For whatever reason the injectors were about 1/8" taller than the sd 80s so I had to oval out the hole on the fuel rail slightly.
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At the same time I also added a radium engineering fuel pulse damper to the driver fuel rail. I am thinking that the random lean spots that I was unable to tune out were due to some fuel system harmonics with the new big injectors. I screwed it directly into the fuel rail adapter and 90'd right off of it.
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Lastly when I originally installed the ls2 d585 coils I made up stainless leads to the plug for the coil on plug setup. They worked nice and firmly clicked the coil to the injector. I problem with this setup however was that water would get into the plug holes and started corroding the plug end of the lead. There were also broken strands on the braded cable on every lead that wasn't originally there. I am not sure the ferrite donuts I put on were accomplishing anything at all either.
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To replace this I ordered a factory replacement set of Denso cop springs and boots. I crimped 8 new spark plug wire ends for the coils just large enough that I had to "thread" the spring onto the crimped end. Bonus of these denso springs is the have a sizeable ferrite core in the center to hopefully help cut down on any noise.
Gas Engineering Auto part Machine Metal







Approximate difference in length to a stock coil. The fit on the plugs perfect.
20210830_200347.jpg


Still haven't been able to drive it with the fuel pressure damper or new coil setup however, hoping to be able to this weekend. New baby plus work and trying to still get to the gym really cuts into project time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The damper in the previous post is what led me to start the fuel damper thread last week. After mulling it over for a while I moved forward with ordering a second damper that I am going to install on the rear of the passenger side rail. I am not terribly concerned with the fpd failing as I could not find a single instance of the Radium one failing. I believe they are significantly more robust that a factory style unit. The improvement that one made on the driver side made me a believer in them and I'm betting one on each bank will cure all of my issues.

On another note. Went out to get some groceries last week and the car came home on a trailer.
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Car lost all spark for some reason at the end of a pull and stranded me on the side of the road. After trying to diag it on the side of the road and determining it wasn't getting spark I loaded it up and took it home. Not before accidentally hooking the strap around the inner tie tod rather than the control arm because I was in a hurry. Have two new inner rods on the way now.

Did a little digging the next day at lunch and measured an open ground on the primary switched 12v circuit for the coils. I put this ground on a bolt on the back of one of the heads and apparently it had backed out somehow.
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I sanded the backside of the eyelet and the head surface and reinstalled with some blue loctite. I had a feeling after I dropped all 8 coils when the plugs and log looked fine that it was probably something stupid like this. The weird part was it had never given me any issues prior. No hard starts, misfires or breaking up and it just so happened to decide to 100% cut out at the very end of a pull in 3rd to redline. Definitely had a knot in my stomach when it first happened happened thinking I melted something down. Cars are fun sometimes.
 
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