Mustang and Ford Performance Forums banner
1 - 20 of 110 Posts

· Administrator
Joined
·
9,825 Posts
Very impressive work! Like Tony asked, details?

BTW be sure to check the pin end of that rod. The piston looks like the fire torched the rod also.

Ed
 

· Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is what it is



Details...Changed to a new circle d triple plate near factory stall, went out for a spin drove for about 30 minutes varying conditions. Just before the house decided to romp on it from about a 40 roll. shifted smoothly through the gears to third with no traction then pop.

8.5:1 stock navi cams and springs, valves, Sullivan intake, 60lb, Weldon 2015a -12 feeding pump -10feeding splitter feeding -8 to rails -6 return,
Kooks long tubes with no cats and 3 inch all the way out of magnaflow dido with built in x
23+ psi from F1A inter-cooled
18 degrees
20 gallons 93 plus 1 can torco fuel maybe one month old
55 temps
give or take 600rwhp
Couldn't say what the wideband said wasn't watching didn't log the run either. Didn't hear any Det but that may because all of the noise from the motor exhaust blower who knows. Any other questions ask away.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Block is back from the machine shop. Knieriem Racing in Louisville took care of the machining. Also got some parts coming in. Pics below. Heads are from Fox Lake fully ported navi heads with bronze guides and ferrea valves. Pistons are set zero decked to deliver 9.5/1 static. I opted for the anodized with coated skirts. I upgraded my old h13 tool steel pin from JE .150 wall to the Trend h13 .185 wall. There was nothing wrong with the old pins they checked perfect but I'm looking to make more power. Total seal rings. ACL rod and main bearings.

















And some arp side bolts.



 

· Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts

· Administrator
Joined
·
9,825 Posts
+1 on what Matt said^

I meant to say something about this pic earlier but somehow didn't do it.

You should carefully inspect that rod for heat damage to the pin bore. If the aluminum is just a spattering on the OD of the pin end you are OK. Clean it off use a little scotch brits to clean it up and you are ready to go. If you put any significant heat into the pin end you should consider replacing that rod with a fresh one.

The last thing you need (or want) is a pin end rod failure. When they fail up there the damage is massive - especially with a forged billet rod. The rod will swing around on the crank pin while the engine runs and will essentially act like a weed wacker inside the block destroying everything in its circular path. When you see an engine failure like that it is beyond anything you would expect or have ever seen before.

The cost of one rod is small in comparison. BTW if you have to replace it, when you replace it give Manley the total weight and the end weights. If you get the right guy on the other end of the phone he can get you amazingly close weight-wise to what you have right now.

Hope you don't need to do this.

Ed

p.s. I just noticed you do not have bushed pin ends on your rods. This means that probably is not a Manley. Regardless of manufacturer you really want to have bronze bushed pin ends - it is just more reliable.
 
1 - 20 of 110 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top