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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen a number of 99+ 4v's with the following mods get 320 rwhp, which at 15% loss is ~375hp this sounds good to me. Here's what they have:

-underdrive pulleys
-chip
-cat-back
-x-pipe
-80mm MAF
-Densecharger

I have the MAC Cat-back, BBK o/r X, and densecharger, so i am looking at a 80mm MAF for the next step. what brand do you all use/suggest. Any comments on pullies or chips is appreciated too!

Glenn
 

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Go with headers and a tune first. I really wouldn't waste money on the maf until you get into a little porting work. The gains just aren't there. At your mod level the gains from the maf would mostly if not all come from a leaner calibration. You can make 320 on the stock maf, just bolt on the rest of the goodies it needs to broaden the curve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
are they hp gains to be had from a tune on a car so stock? I would guess factory settings are lame, but what can i expect from a tune with what i have now? And what about brand for a chip? Thanks guys

G
 

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Take care of all of your bolt-on's first. I was adding the the list you posted in your original post. Once those items are complete look into getting a tune. Gains are different for everyone depending on what your A/F was prior to the tune. Some cars run richer/leaner then others from the factory.
 

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Dont bother with a MAF yet. A MAF was one of my first mods, but I didnt really need it at the time.
Do a complete exhaust. Headers like Jeff said.
Put together a homemade intake tube like Jeff did, and I eventually did. I think it's alot nicer than the densechargers I've seen so far. But from what I hear, they're coming out with a nicer product thanks to Jeffs help.
Good K&N Filter
Gears, gears, gears. 4.10 minimum.
I know I'll get knocked for this, but cut one of your IAT wires and solder in a 47K ohm resistor. It makes a HUGE difference in part throttle torque. I dont know why, but it does. I've pulled that resistor out and put it back in a million times, and every time, it felt drastically stronger with the resistor. I pulled it out after I got a chip cause I figured I didnt need it any more. For kicks, I put it back in, and even with the added timing from my chip, the resistor still made a world of difference. It more or less removes part of the detonation control strategy. Keeps timing there, (doesnt add timing)and adds a bit of fuel.
 

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I'm still running the stock MAF from a 96 2V engine. Numbers are in sig. Autologic and Diable are good chips. Wait till you have all your mods done before tho. Saves $$$. If you can afford it, get it on a dyno and a custom tune. Well worth it IMO.

My mod list is very short. (factory freak??:confused: )
BBK LTs
BBK o/r H-pipe
WMS Intake tube
K&N
96 2V EEC w/ a custom chip
Dyno #s were with stock cat-back

Darren
 

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the 47k ohm resister makes your computer think that it is 40 below zero outside (or something like that) and your computer runs the timing higher. From what I have heard, it does work. I have never tried it though. If you want to get the full story on it contact Fourcam281 on the corral. When I first got my car over 3 years ago, he suggested this mod to me.
 

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It doesnt add timing. It just more or less prevents the detonation control strategy from being totally effective...which cuts timing. I think after having this for the past 3 years or whatever, is that the main benefit may come from the tip in or shift retards being prevented from kicking in. You can also have those retards eliminated with a chip. The dyno showed a .5 richening with the resistor on my car, so if you're too lean it may be a cheap fix for it. I really dont feel a difference at WOT, but part throttle acceleration and tip in is much stronger....which leads me to believe it reduces tip in retard.
BTW, it doesnt make the computer think it's 40 below, it's 40 degrees F, about.
 

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Here are the exact values for using a resister in the IAT plug. This is the only way I have seen them run. You unplug the IAT sensor and slide the resister in the terminals. The way HEMI is talking about running the resister is soldered inline, which is when they reccomend the 47k ohm resister. The 120K ohm will tell your computer it is a nice 19° outside :D

Temp(F) R(ohms)
-40 925021
-31 673787
-22 496051
-13 368896
- 4 276959
5 209816
14 160313
23 123485
32 95851
41 74914
50 58987
59 46774
68 37340
77 30000
86 24253
95 19716
104 16113
113 13236
122 10926
131 9061
140 7548
149 6332
158 5335
167 4515
176 3837
185 3274
194 2804
203 2411
212 2080
221 1801
230 1564
239 1363
248 1191
257 1044
266 918
275 809
284 715
293 633
302 563

More info here!
http://www.ghostcobraracing.stangnet.com/
 

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How about just letting the IAT hang in the fenderwell and plug the hole on the intake tube? It's cooler in the fender, wouldn't this be kind of the same thing? A couple guys do this w/ postive results. I'll try it next time at the track. (I'm not very consistant tho, so it makes it difficult to see gains:( )

Darren
 

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The reason for going inline, is so that the IAT is still functional. Like every 5 running cycles, when the engine is cold, the computer checks the IAT to make sure the thing works. If the temperature fluctuates from time to time, the computer doesnt give you a code. Stack the 47k ohm resistance, with the thermistor's resistance in the ambient temps(70 degrees for example), and it's like 75-80k ohms.
 
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