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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know thats some pretty hardcore stuff but only saw a couple posts in th epast about it. I know Ratt Fink does...

just looking at diff options...might do it..might not...only put about 2k street miles a year now on the car...shows...late night stuff...so its a possibility for me.
 

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from what ive seen it aint to hard to do. flaming river is prabably the best kit, and you drop about 80 pounds. i will be doing it this summer. and its actually not bad on the street.
 

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I was about to pull the trigger, I have all the part numbers ready to go, but I decided against it. My car is not a race car. Furthermore, I could not justify the cost/benefit. My cousin is in the process of converting though.

IMO, if you are going all out, it is a must. Less drag on the motor, shaves about 65# off the nose, and surely cleans up the engine compartment.

--Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
from what ive seen it aint to hard to do. flaming river is prabably the best kit, and you drop about 80 pounds. i will be doing it this summer. and its actually not bad on the street.
Ive heard its not noticable w/ skinny tires up front but what about 18s and 275's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was about to pull the trigger, I have all the part numbers ready to go, but I decided against it. My car is not a race car. Furthermore, I could not justify the cost/benefit. My cousin is in the process of converting though.

IMO, if you are going all out, it is a must. Less drag on the motor, shaves about 65# off the nose, and surely cleans up the engine compartment.

--Joe
Well..mine is slowly becoming one...lol...I brought it to the track every weekend one month last year....I was insane...lol...

car to share what you were thinking for parts?

so far Ive gathered

Flaming River rack (not sure on which ratio??)
Flaming River adapter for stock shaft
move the hole on the brake pedal 2" from pivot point for more pedal
and use a smaller bore MC. seen a few posts about the 1"+ MC's feeling squishy

now what about the back belt?? is it doable?
 

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Well..mine is slowly becoming one...lol...I brought it to the track every weekend one month last year....I was insane...lol...

car to share what you were thinking for parts?

so far Ive gathered

Flaming River rack (not sure on which ratio??)
Flaming River adapter for stock shaft
move the hole on the brake pedal 2" from pivot point for more pedal
and use a smaller bore MC. seen a few posts about the 1"+ MC's feeling squishy

now what about the back belt?? is it doable?
The rear belt you do not even need if you get an electric water pump. You can remove all idlers, and tensioner too.

I was going to use a FR rack and Aerospace manual brake adapter. It is all plug and play, all you have to do is bend new brake lines over to where the ABS block was (since that should be deleted too).

I run 17x9's with 275 front tires on the street which was more reasoning for me to keep the PS.

--Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The rear belt you do not even need if you get an electric water pump. You can remove all idlers, and tensioner too.

I was going to use a FR rack and Aerospace manual brake adapter. It is all plug and play, all you have to do is bend new brake lines over to where the ABS block was (since that should be deleted too).

I run 17x9's with 275 front tires on the street which was more reasoning for me to keep the PS.

--Joe
now that would be interesting...no back belt...

thats hindering me too..the 275s...Im not superman and Ive seen people in older cars struggling which didn tlook fun..lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That was assuming you have A/C deleted.......which I thought you said you did.

If not then you would still need the rear belt to turn the A/C compressor.

--Joe
thats been gone for a year now...what if it would make more power...uh...decisions decisions....
 

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Just a note if your going to run an electric water pump, that you have to trim the pulley bridge ever so slightly.

At least I did when I put on the meziere water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just a note if your going to run an electric water pump, that you have to trim the pulley bridge ever so slightly.

At least I did when I put on the meziere water pump.
yea Ive heard this and remember seeing a pic of it. thanks
 

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Well if you were doing away with the back belt get a water pump with no pulley and you shouldn't need to clearance it at all.
 

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hey ba03svt, artsperformanceparts on corral has really good deals on the flaming river, aerospace, and upr stuff

he just told me all the part #s needed and can get you a quote shipped.

upr also makes a new MC and adapter that is cheaper than the aerospace kit
the standard ratio is on a hella sale right now thru him
 

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I removed the back belt completely on my modular fox combo, In the process of finishing it up and getting it running, I wonder how much rwhp its worth when the rear belt is deleted ?? Some say the Mezeire is worth 12rwhp by itself but I have seen as few as 5. The AC & PS I am not sure about. Is 20 total realistic? I am hoping for an honest 500sae rwhp out of a non ported 2.65 upper combo.
 

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Anything the engine has to turn takes power just remember that:bigwink: Get rid of it all if you are willing to do without a few creature comforts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
hey ba03svt, artsperformanceparts on corral has really good deals on the flaming river, aerospace, and upr stuff

he just told me all the part #s needed and can get you a quote shipped.

upr also makes a new MC and adapter that is cheaper than the aerospace kit
the standard ratio is on a hella sale right now thru him
so what exactly are you going with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I removed the back belt completely on my modular fox combo, In the process of finishing it up and getting it running, I wonder how much rwhp its worth when the rear belt is deleted ?? Some say the Mezeire is worth 12rwhp by itself but I have seen as few as 5. The AC & PS I am not sure about. Is 20 total realistic? I am hoping for an honest 500sae rwhp out of a non ported 2.65 upper combo.
I have heard the mez pump being mor elike 5rwhp also.

back in the day when I was first starting to race I use to put a short belt on my Dakota R/T and it would instantly go up 2 tenths and 1-2mph...granted it was a 13.7 truck but it must have been 15-20hp and it was stil on the crank, wp and alt.

It'd be nice to have a nice list to go by...I relly dont want to run into crazy dumb issue's w/ it if I decide to do it up. I only have about 7 weeks till the track opens up and have a race in 8 weeks so it needs to be ready.
 

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Manual steering isn't bad. I've always kept the power brakes, but I have vacuum assist on my other Mustang so it's not gonna give much gain.

I prefer manual steering on the highway and when moving, but it's REAL tough to pull a U-turn with big tires, and around the parking lot can be tough. I've been in some manual steering cars, with big blocks in them, that are easy to turn though. It all depends on the available ratios.

I would suggest running a skinny tire up front. If for nothing else but just the safety factor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
whats the diff between the reg and quick ratio racks?
 
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