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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I currently have an new motor going in and noticed that my Spec Stage 1 clutch is pretty badly burnt up (only about <13k miles on it) and one side warn out more than the other. It held power really well up to this point with no noticable slip and with 555R drag radials. I had 370 rwhp and 400 rwtq with a turbo and 440 rwhp and 390 rwtq with a v2 vortech without issues.

The only negative about that clutch (and whats keeping me from thinking twice about buying it again) is that the clutch chatter was RIDICULOUS; especially during break in (sounded like the trans/motor was going to grenade when you tried slipipng the clutch- thats how bad it was). Also, the pedal was pretty stiff for being a stage 1 (most people couldnt drive it) and i already have a firewall adj + aluminum quadrant).

My build will put me in the range of 450-500 rwhp with matching tq (im turbo). So will a Ram HDX clutch hold 450-500 rwhp/tq? I hear great things about it and best of all, little-to-no chatter. the reviews outdue the Spec 1 but most people seem to be <350 rwhp/tq.

My car is a street car so i do mostly street pulls and light launches. I track the car maybe once a year with 2-3 passes if that.

CONSIDER: Im very low on funds and the only option is a <$250 clutch. Will resurface stock flywheel.
 

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Chatter from a Spec stage 1 or 2 means there's an issue, or poor break-in. I have always run Spec clutches, and never had chatter.

Some causes of chatter are:


  1. Flywheel Has Excessive Run-Out.
  2. Fly Wheel Was Not Resurfaced Before The New Clutch Was Installed.
  3. Flywheel Was Resurfaced Improperly Or Has Improper Surface Finish.
  4. Flywheel Has Severe Hard Spots Or Hot Spots.
  5. Flywheel Resurfaced Improperly (I.E. Incorrect Flywheel Step).
  6. Bad U-Joints In Drive Shaft Or U-Joints Misaligned.
  7. Excessive Backlash In Differential.
  8. Excessive Drive-Line Angle.
  9. Bad Leaf Springs, Bushings Or Mounts.
  10. Improper Gear Ratio Versus Tire Diameter.
  11. Defective Pressure Plate And/Or Disc.
  12. Disc Has Inadequate Or No Marcel (Not Enough Cushion Between The Friction Facings).
  13. Oil Or Grease Contamination On Clutch Facings.
  14. Worn Or Damaged Clutch Linkage.
  15. Bent Cover Assembly And/Or Disc .
  16. Improperly Tuned Engine.
  17. Worn Or Damaged Engine Mounts Or Transmission Mounts.&Nbsp;
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I see. Yea the chatter went away after about 10k miles which is waay too long. Break-in was proper, i drove about 800 miles in stop and go traffic and slipped it as least as possible. It was most likely the flywheel or the mounts because i had to replace all new motor and trans mounts with the new engine (clutch had about 9k on it.



But anyway, would you consider a RAM HDX at the power level im looking for? I definitely dont want to OVER clutch or put in too much clutch cause my tranny is the only bone stock part on my car and would rather blow the clutch than the trans.
 

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I don't recommend anything but Spec. A stage 2 would be perfect and hold all you can throw at it. I run a Stage 2 on my setup. Zero slip,zero chatter, almost stock feel.
 

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+1 i have about 1k miles on my spec stage 2 and it has no chatter at all, pedal feel is light and feels way better then my king cobra i had when the stock longblock was in it
 

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I'm in the same boat as you are. I had a Hays clutch that chattered really bad, and eventually wore out after about 15k miles. I was going to go with the Ram HDX, but after reading reviews on AM, about half of them said they had a chatter. Not to mention I don't want to do another clutch swap in 10k miles. So I went with an 03-04 cobra clutch by Valeo. Upr said it's the same kit that Ford uses, they just bypassed the middle man, and includes a quality throwout bearing. If you go with anything else, I'd suggest a Ford throwout bearing which is another 50 bucks. I get the car back tomorrow. You will need an 8 bolt flywheel that fits an 11" clutch though. My Spec aluminum has both the 10.5 and 11" bolt patterns.
 
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