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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wiring the twin Walbro's, I wanted to run one feed line from the Batt into a quality fuse block then feed two seperate lines, one to each pump . Should I use 2 seperate relays to feed the pumps or one heavy duty relay before the fuse block?

What is the amp draw on these pumps?
The fuse in the fuse block under the hood, that now has a 30amp fuse in it but since the pumps will no longer be driven by that do I drop the fuse size. That is just the trigger now right? I want to take the power after the crash switch in the trunk so that will still function and use that for the trigger.
 

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i used my 4 gauge wire coming off the battery for my amp since I ripped my radio out. Already had an inline fuse and everything

I picked up a scosche distribution block in the car audio section @ wal-mart for like 15 bucks that has 2 30 amp fuses. My 4 gauge wire goes into that and (2) 10 gauge wires out of it for the relays (2 pumps, 2 relays).

T-tap with a male disconnect was used to tap the FPDM wire as the trigger for the relays so the pumps come on with key-on. When I flash the car or need to do compression test or other things where I don't want the pumps to run, I can go in the trunk and just slide the male disconnect off of the fpdm tap which makes life easy.
 

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i used my 4 gauge wire coming off the battery for my amp since I ripped my radio out. Already had an inline fuse and everything

I picked up a scosche distribution block in the car audio section @ wal-mart for like 15 bucks that has 2 30 amp fuses. My 4 gauge wire goes into that and (2) 10 gauge wires out of it for the relays (2 pumps, 2 relays).

T-tap with a male disconnect was used to tap the FPDM wire as the trigger for the relays so the pumps come on with key-on. When I flash the car or need to do compression test or other things where I don't want the pumps to run, I can go in the trunk and just slide the male disconnect off of the fpdm tap which makes life easy.
I agree with the above. It's the preferred setup as one pump can get you home in a jam. You just need to make sure you don't lose one pump and make a WOT pull.

Mine is wired the same way.
 

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I took a different approach... I used a 4 ga wire out of the battery with a 60 amp maxi fuse to a single 75 amp relay which is triggered by the FPDM green/yellow wire to a 40 amp BAP controlling both pumps on a single supply wire...

I would have used the two relay setup if I would have done the setup without the BAP, however I don't know how to get around joining the two pump power wires with a single BAP (without using two BAP's)...

So far it seems to work fine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What was your reason for keeping the BAP in the car? I wanted to go with the Glens triple fuel pump setup but Glenns told me for my power level of around 730ish to the tire I would not need it.

I spent all this money on a fuel system, I will be totally pissed if I am on the edge because I do not have the 3rd pump!!
 

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What was your reason for keeping the BAP in the car? I wanted to go with the Glens triple fuel pump setup but Glenns told me for my power level of around 730ish to the tire I would not need it.

I spent all this money on a fuel system, I will be totally pissed if I am on the edge because I do not have the 3rd pump!!
I already have it plus I am going to spray the car in the very near future... At least a 100 shot so I want to make sure the fuel system is up to the task once I hit the sauce...

Also, even if I never choose to turn the BAP above 0 it will give me the ability to supply the pumps a solid 14V at all times...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Maybe I will install mine as well, hell it is still in the car.
 

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I just wired twin GSL 392's (external).
Im using my 40a BAP as well so I have 2 wires (fused) coing out of the BAP to the pumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What I was thinking of doing is, the feed out of the BAP to a distrubition block then run 2 seperate wires to the pumps. I have the BAP wiring upgrade alraedy in the car so I can reuse that relay and under hood fuse holder.
 

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i used my 4 gauge wire coming off the battery for my amp since I ripped my radio out. Already had an inline fuse and everything

I picked up a scosche distribution block in the car audio section @ wal-mart for like 15 bucks that has 2 30 amp fuses. My 4 gauge wire goes into that and (2) 10 gauge wires out of it for the relays (2 pumps, 2 relays).

T-tap with a male disconnect was used to tap the FPDM wire as the trigger for the relays so the pumps come on with key-on. When I flash the car or need to do compression test or other things where I don't want the pumps to run, I can go in the trunk and just slide the male disconnect off of the fpdm tap which makes life easy.
So you have your fuses before the relays. Do you have a fuse after them close to the pumps too? I thought a fuse should be placed after a relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have the fuses before the relay, I do not see it making a difference because the fuse it 20amp but the relay is a 40 amp so either way the fuse will let go before harming anything.
 

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Ok. I'll do it that way then, thanks.
 
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