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2 sounds, a tick and a knock

5.6K views 11 replies 3 participants last post by  modedcb2  
#1 ·
2004 Mercury Mountaineer. 4.6L 2v, 5r55s trans, AWD 180,856 miles and counting 73 miles more every day.

Mods: custom intake piping from Moded stock Air box to TB, Trick Flow Intake Manifold Elbow, upgraded COP's, high flow cats, and full exhaust.

I've done some digging into my "tick" and "knock" and they are inter-related.

the Tick, sounds just like push rod lifter/valve train. its constant, matches rpm, and eventually is a barely audible above 2,000rpm at steady cruise.

the "knock" is at cold start up, sounds like it back by the flywheel/converter is only for maybe 2-3-4 revolutions, then is gone. BUT once fully warm, the "knock", is present when you are in drive at the stop light. If you put the SUV in park, at the light, the knock goes away.

the tick has me thinking tensioner(s) , chains, & guides. at 180K, how long are the chains good for? tensioners and guides are wear parts, I have no issue replacing them. Question: upgraded replacements for all the timing pieces out there? brands? vendors? anything to avoid, of just get Ford parts and call it good?

the knock has me baffled. Is it the converter or flexplate? is it rod bearings? At the same time magically as the Timing pieces?

I am all ears... open to any and all experiences.

Rob
 
#2 ·
The torque converters are know to rattle/knock,, you get that rolling knock sound at idle in gear..not sayin thats what you have but Ive seen a bunch do that.. ticking noise doesnt sound chain guide, maybe a follower. chains usually rattle when the guides are worn out.... ford stuff is probably the best to get..
 
#3 ·
Noise

The knock could come from the pump in the trans and it sounds like the converter
id live with it unless you want to exchange the trans and converter
the engine tick could be a bad lifter bas as you know you cant find which one without taking it apart and they are kind of a pita,fixing in chassis
ken
 
#4 ·
thanks guys.. the converter is what I have been wondering. Its just weird how both started the same day.

Looking at the Haynes Manual for the SUv, says to do timing chains, guides, tensioners you remove the rockers and lash adjusters? is that a typo? why would I disassemble the upper head pieces for the timing set on the front of the engine?

Rob
 
#5 ·
You would remove the followers just to prevent the cam from turning on its own while the chains are off. is it needed? no..Just remember they are an interference engine, valves will hit the pistons and can be damaged if the cams turn without the chains on...
 
#6 ·
well after some more reading.. I would likely replace the lash adjusters while I am in there anyway. maybe the rockers as well just for good measure.

transmission shops have been telling me that the sounds could BOTH be from the tensioners/guides being worn out... so I am headed out to pull a couple valve covers and see what the chains feel like.

Rob
 
#7 ·
it is normal for the tensioner on the pass side to bleed down,when apart you will notice that chain has slop,
this is not abnormal
as soon as you crank the engine over w/key it should pump right up and have no slop ,if not then its a prob
ken
 
#9 ·
Tick

No like i said if working normal it will pump right up while cranking, these build pressure to the tensioner immediatly
did you try changing the oil filter? Use a fl820 and never a cheap 1.00 filter or even a fram they are bad for modulars
stick w/ fl820's always
ken
 
#10 ·
I always use Motorcraft oil and the 820. I am doing an oil change today anyway.

the thing is that both noises are VERY loud at start up and until the engine gets the trans into 5th gear, then everything quiets down. Only a faint lifter-type tick. the knock is definitely toward the rear of the engine, or seems to be and is always at start up from cold. Light hammering once warmed up.

I'm picking up a mechanics stethoscope today to isolate if its indeed the tensioners (low on Pass Side, high on driver's side) and see if I can tell if the knock/hammering is in the trans or just amplified through the block to the back....

I just REALLY don't want a catastrophic failure right now. We are down to 1 vehicle in the family until late next week.

Rob
 
#11 ·
Tick

My wifes 03 expl 4.6 4x4 has a loud scraping sound and a hollow rattle from the bellhausing,i thought it was the converters,wrong. We exchanged the trans and converter under esp warranty and it was quiet as a mouse,there was an older service message on the engine tick where you would change the cyl head to fix it,if i were you i would not worry or chase to fix it,i never heard of one causing catastrofic failure,just tearing down for insp sounds catastrofic to me
ken
 
#12 ·
thanks Ken.. I have been using a technicians stethoscope this afternoon and the knock is definitely around #6-7 piston area. not the rear of the engine. So I either have a wrist pin or rod goind quickly.

I am resolving myself to a used replacement... trying to weigh all the options and get the best bang for the buck and get a solid foundation for some future upgrades.

So I am back to a Teksid 2v conversion. I am going to have to swap either my 17cc pistons if they measure out ok.. or a set of 91-96 2v 11cc pistons for a compression boost.

Rob