Excellent work Ed. I'd be all over this if I still used my left foot to pilot.

 

Thanks Tony, I figured you might be an 'early responder'. :grin:

I think this might help a lot of guys save a little money in an expensive hobby. We all know how demanding this can be on the wallet, this could lighten the load a little.

Ed

 

The next step was the positioning of the lightening holes around the periphery to both clean up the "extra" bolt holes for the 11" long and Borg & Beck pressure plates but also to reduce the flywheel's polar moment by removing as much of the mass from the OD of the wheel as practical.

The wheel after careful placement of the lightening holes for weight removal looked like this.

I placed a heat shield biscuit into the flywheel to see what it would look like. The next step would be the placement and drilling and tapping of the 36 attaching holes for the biscuits. The biscuits can be water jetted or laser cut from mild steel plate. I made my biscuits 0.350 thick. You could go as thin as 0.300 but I preferred the additional mass of the thicker biscuit for heat management reasons. If you are short on water jet facilities (or lazy like me) the biscuits can be bought from Crower (which I did) as service items for a 10.5" slider clutch.

When the biscuit attaching holes were done the flywheel looked like this,

Now came the hard part tapping 36 holes with a nice intimate GH3 fit so the fasteners would screw smoothly into their anchoring holes. Tapping in a Bridgeport without a tapping clutch and using x-y coordinates to position the tap can try your very soul before you finish. The only thing worse is doing it w/o a digital read out (DRO).

To get the biscuits ready to be bolted in you will have to both drill the holes to match the flywheel pattern (or vice versa) and then chamfer each hole to accept a flat head grade 8 allen screw with an 82˚ underhead angle. More tedium. When you successfully complete this phase of the project you will be able to bolt the biscuits to your flywheel and the assembly will look like this,

At this point there are a few items that remain to be attended to. The first was the remaining pressure plate attaching holes for the 11" unit. The fix was straight forward. Screw low head allen bolts in from the back side of the flywheel and Loctite them in place with "Red" so they aren't going anywhere. After the Loctite set up, I went back to the mill and milled the bolts flush with the flywheel surface.

The second item became the attaching screw holes for the 10.5" pressure plate. The standard hardware is a 5/16" or 8mm bolt depending on who made the flywheel. Neither is acceptable. I used an ARP 2000 rod bolt with a precision ground stem and a 12 pt head. The bolt shank was exactly 0.375" so I drilled the hole 0.007" undersize and reamed it to 0.373" to provide a 0.0015" to 0.002" press fit on each stand bolt. The bolts were pressed in from the back of the flywheel. The clutch stands were made from 1.25" diameter mild steel. I cut the OD to 1.245 to allow a 0.005" slip fit through the floater - which was machined to 1.25". Here is a pic of the stands starting out as a bar of cold rolled steel,

The last thing to be done at this point was to drill and tap the flywheel for the two small screws that are used to push it off the crankshaft when you are disassembling the unit. You can see those holes in the post #1 pic of all the pieces.

More to come tomorrow ...

Ed

 

ed, one of eric's best moves was making you a moderator, with all the great info you provide for all of the members here

 

Freaking awesome Ed!! Just awesome!!

Subbin Ed. You were right, I did enjoy checking out the initial posts. Looking forward to the rest. Man, I don't know if I have a machine shop around me that I would trust to cut up my flywheel like that. I suppose once the data points are stored in the CNC machines database, it would not be hard to duplicate. You think your shop would be interested? The flywheel machining is easily the hardest (read: most complex) part of this.

+1, Initial group buy run for the flywheels?

+1 on what Jim said,Ed your valuable asset to all of us and a very good friend to me anytime I need you,as
usual you've out done yourself (good. Show)

AJ

Absolutely awesome Ed and thanks.

Sometimes 24 hours takes longer than planned apologies to those who are following this thread.

Thanks for the atta-boys guys, but this is no more difficult than stuff we all do every day. It just takes a little push to get any of us off our keyster and make some chips.

At this point the clutch is almost finished we still have a few items to attend to and of course debur the whole thing so we don't cut our hands each time we work with it.

The next order of business is the floater. It is not obvious without either doing the math or assembling the pieces but the floater will but right up to the clutch cover on the pressure plate. So what you say? The problem is that when you release the clutch if the floater does not "float" you get drag on the front disc and it becomes all but impossible to shift the transmission fast (read speed shift).

The fix is easy and straight forward. Floaters have to float and the clutch will need about 0.020" to 0.025" clearance for each disk. Sooo, to make sure there is adequate clearance for the front disk I machined a 0.050" relief into the top of each floater drive lug in the lathe.

This is what the floater looks like from the top when it's done;

Now we have release when the clutch pedal is depressed.

I like to cut metal so I have to be careful as I create solutions. The clutch stands were one of those situations. I machined the stands to clear a disk they would never hit! A fine example of asleep at the switch sort of design engineering. The clutch disks I used were only 10.2 inches in diameter and had country miles of space between them and the stands. Didn't matter to me though because I was going to put clearance there whether it was needed or not - and I did! This is a step you don't want to duplicate. Here is the look at the clearanced stand;

If you have a full 10.5" diameter disk then you need to do this, otherwise a small relief to clear the heat shield biscuits is all that is required.

The last item of business is the pressure plate. Because the 'plate was originally intended to be used with 5/16 or 8mm (depending on application) fasteners the attaching bolt holes are only 0.360" diameter and our stands are 0.375" diameter. To fix this problem I used a 0.380 reamer to take 0.010" off each side of the attaching bolt hole and allow a precision fit of the clutch cover to flywheel.

That's it you're done!

None of the work was done on a CNC machine. The lathe work was done in a good old fashioned model like machinists used 40 years ago and you can find cheap on ebay. The milling was done in a Bridgeport with a digital read out (DRO) that allowed precision x - y positioning of the work. This is what the DRO monitor looked like;

To generate the x/y coordinates I built a simple Excel model that you could specify a bolt circle diameter, the number of holes and a displacement from 0˚ for the first hole (if required). The spreadsheet would lay out a table or x - y co-ordinates for each hole that you could set off on the DRO and drill a hole.

Here is what the print out looked like;

and for those adventurous souls who would like to try this on their own I will upload the calculator in my next post. BTW to do this all you need is a lathe and a mill with a DRO. If you have not used this type of equipment before, make friends with someone who has and ask him to help you - this is not a lot of work.

For those who have been paying attention you are probably saying what about the disks? Where do they come from?

Well you have several choices, you can buy them from a clutch manufacturer as a service item or you can have them custom made for your application (much preferred). You can get the custom fabrication done at one of two, possibly more, service providers. One is your local automotive / truck clutch rebuilder and one is what I affectionately call my farm tractor engineering source (FTES).

While both sources work I have a bias for the FTES source because they are used to doing custom one offs for farm tractors that have been out of production for, sometimes, decades. Turns out they use all the familiar friction materials we like to use and do a fine job of fabrication. If you want organic facings or kevlar of ceramic or sintered iron they have them all and more. Pick a material, a solid hub and then be sure to use a marcel spring. A marcel spring is a way of attaching the friction material to the hub that allows a small amount of compression when the pressure plate closes on the disks. That small amount of compression is what gives you the smooth engagement we all like to have.

If you want to make the clutch more aggressive go to more aggressive linings. Don't forget you are the designer this time so you can mix and match even on the same disk! When the disks need replacing switch out the heat shield biscuits, surface the floater and put on a new $100 pressure plate from FRPP and you are ready to go.

Here is what I paid for the pieces in my unit:

Billet steel SFI flywheel $135; Disks $90 each from FTES; Floater $75 from Crower; Heat Shields $90 for six Crower again; Misc fasteners and stand material $100. Total materials cost $580. Round it off to $600 and you have a custom made, maintainable (by you), almost forever clutch. If you go to the marketplace for this clutch you will spend somewhere north of $1,500 for an equivalent unit. I'll put up the dimensions on critical items i used, when I fabbed my unit, tomorrow in a follow up post.

Couple of parting thoughts, you want the heat shields to protrude 0.050 give or take above the surface of the flywheel. I prefer a 0.350" thick floater because when you are done clearancing for the 0.050" release gap you still have 0.300" thick drive lugs. On a billet steel clutch and flywheel the first thing to probably fail is the stamped steel cover on the pressure plate. Don't use home depot fasteners, ARP is the only choice. God only gave you one set of feet! - run a scatter shield.

Ed

Almost forgot you need to use the bolt circle calculator one more time to get the x-y co-ordinates for the two bolt holes you use to push the flywheel of the back of the crank when you take it off for service.

 

Freaking awesome Ed!! Just awesome!!

 

Subbin Ed. You were right, I did enjoy checking out the initial posts. Looking forward to the rest. Man, I don't know if I have a machine shop around me that I would trust to cut up my flywheel like that. I suppose once the data points are stored in the CNC machines database, it would not be hard to duplicate. You think your shop would be interested? The flywheel machining is easily the hardest (read: most complex) part of this.

 

+1, Initial group buy run for the flywheels?

 

+1 on what Jim said,Ed your valuable asset to all of us and a very good friend to me anytime I need you,as
usual you've out done yourself (good. Show)

AJ

 

Absolutely awesome Ed and thanks.

 

This post will provide you with the bolt circle x/y coordinate calculator that generates the x/y coordinates for hole placement and the fastener calculator that calculates the necessary UHL dimensions for the stand fasteners and the heat shield biscuit fasteners.

I have also included a drawing with x/y coordinates for Crower's 10.5" slider clutch biscuits. The bolt hole placement is legacy from pre CNC days. As a result, virtually each fastener is on a different bolt circle so you have to use the x/y coordinates and a 2D drawing program to rotate them through 360˚ in 60˚ increments in order to properly locate all 36 biscuit fastener holes.

Thats the bad news. the good news is the biscuits are available from Crower for $90 w/o chamfered recesses for the fasteners and $100 w/chamfered recesses. Trust me the $100 price is the way to go. If you want perfect symmetry and uniform bolt circles for the fasteners then you will need to water jet them or try to persuade Crower to sell you some that have not had the fastener holes drilled yet.

Here is the biscuit drawing;

View attachment Heat Shield Biscuit.pdf

The following two Excel spreadsheets are the bolt circle calculator along with the fastener and stand length calculator. Both calculators use the yellow cell background convention for the variables you input for the answers. The fastener and length calculator displays the answers in the light blue gray cells next to the pointing finger (☞).

The bolt circle x/y coordinate calculator lists out the angle and the coordinates for each hole you have requested in a table format. Again variable data is represented by yellow cell backgrounds.

Enjoy - Ed

 

Ed,

Thanks for another thoughtful post.
Perhaps I'm missing the obvious, but removing all of that rotating mass from the flywheel seems to beg the question, why not alloy?

Thanks
Steve

 

Steve, the primary reason for steel was durability and price point. While the holes around the periphery do reduce the polar moment, I put them there more to look cool than for reductions in rotating mass - although they did accomplish both. Above all, I wanted the clutch to be a cost effective, long lived piece with replaceable consumables like friction surfaces and facing materials.

As attractive as it sometimes is, aluminum just is not as robust as steel. Additionally the cost of the total package would jump considerably with an aluminum flywheel. My focus to provide a very robust and simultaneously cost effective solution effectively ruled out an aluminum 'wheel.

The price to replicate this package is in the high teens, but less than $2000, if you bought it retail. If you do what I did in the thread you can literally build the clutch and flywheel for $600 and probably have it out live the car.

Ed

 

What disc material did you use?

 

Those disks are relatively common organic lining for predominately street use Ricky. As the designer/builder however you can use literally any friction material you might choose. My selection was for a predominately street use application. Anything up to carbon fiber is possible.

I may be over simplifying the situation, but is it possible to reuse a stock flywheel, disc, and pressure plate and simply add another disc, floater, and clutch stands? Obviously it would weight more than a commercially available twin disc setup, but I believe it would appeal to quite a few people if there were a low-cost bolt-in solution without all the machining. You might have a decent money maker if a kit was available.

You could Derek. In fact the pressure plate I am using is an FRPP unit - although a little zippier (according to FRPP) than stock. The challenge with the stock aluminum wheel is the effect of age and use. Everyone assumes aluminum rods deteriorate from being over speed or exposed to very high power levels. While over speeding can damage a rod and very high cylinder pressures could mechanically damage a rod the effect of heat cycles should not be overlooked.

We have experimented with aluminum rod life cycles that ranged from 30 passes to as much as 80 passes. In the end we settled on 50 passes at which time we would remove and replace with new. The engines were never over-sped there was no indications of beam damage from detonating or other mishaps. The issues always came down to heat cycles. While we could "get away" with 80 passes our anxiety levels were much lower at 50 cycles and replacement. The cost of rods vs the cost of an engine.

It is also worthwhile mentioning that rod bolt failure and rod failure are caused by different events. The rod bolts experience their greatest tensile loading at TDC overlap where their job is to keep the pistons from continuing upwards through the cylinder head. This loading can be calculated and ARP used to provide the calculation at the front of their catalog in the metalurgy for non-engineers section. I put it into spreadsheet form for ease of use. I have attached a copy for anyone who wants it, it is called Min Rod Bolt Diameter Calc. The rod bolts are sensitive to engine stroke, piston weight (w/pins/rings/locks), engine rpm, bolt root diameter and bolt material. When you fiddle with the calc for a bit this stuff gets real clear. Variable cells have a yellow background.

Like connecting rods, an aluminum flywheel experiences heat cycles, although perhaps not as extreme but still significant. The operative question is how many heat cycles can the flywheel withstand before you are standing at the precipice of a mechanical failure.

In the higher horsepower cars with slider clutches manufacturers have gone to steel and titanium in an attempt to push this threshold as far out as possible. The clutch manufacturers still have an SFI imposed inspection / maintenance regimen required for their annual certifications for just this reason. Bad components do not get recert'd.

The focus of the thread was not to be a money maker. Its sole purpose was to show Terminator owners how to get a robust clutch / flywheel combo without breaking the bank and very importantly how to build a user serviceable unit that was for all intents and purposes a forever clutch.

Not enough holes Ed

Drill more!

I knew you couldn't resist Russ! :busted: I am surprised you didn't whack me on the billet stuff. I was ready though - with a sheet metal alternative... :deshade:

Ed

 

I may be over simplifying the situation, but is it possible to reuse a stock flywheel, disc, and pressure plate and simply add another disc, floater, and clutch stands? Obviously it would weight more than a commercially available twin disc setup, but I believe it would appeal to quite a few people if there were a low-cost bolt-in solution without all the machining. You might have a decent money maker if a kit was available.

 

Not enough holes Ed

Drill more!

 

Ed, I never thought this was intended as a money maker. What I do see is someone that is teasing me with the possibilities of what I could do if I were to have access to similar machinery. Thanks. :thongue2:

J/P :friends:

But seriously, I have read many of your threads and believe you are very creative by not simply buying off the shelf parts to bolt them on. Unfortunately, relatively few people have access to the equipment you have and many probably don't have the ability to use them. I just see what you are doing here as an opportunity to make a kit available that many people would appreciate while at the same time put some fun money in your pocket. I have heard and read more than once about people reluctant to spend $1000-1500 on a twin disc setup. A parts kit including few parts needed to build a twin disc setup based on stock parts would be an attractive option.

 

Ed, I never thought this was intended as a money maker. What I do see is someone that is teasing me with the possibilities of what I could do if I were to have access to similar machinery. Thanks. :thongue2: J/P :friends:But seriously, I have read many of your threads and believe you are very creative by not simply buying off the shelf parts to bolt them on. Unfortunately, relatively few people have access to the equipment you have and many probably don't have the ability to use them. I just see what you are doing here as an opportunity to make a kit available that many people would appreciate while at the same time put some fun money in your pocket. I have heard and read more than once about people reluctant to spend $1000-1500 on a twin disc setup. A parts kit including few parts needed to build a twin disc setup based on stock parts would be an attractive option.

Apologies Derek, didn't mean to sound like I was woofing on you but I can see how it could sound that way.

I agree with you about the attractiveness of a kit type solution. My preference would be to encourage the guys to learn how to hunt rather than putting the steak on their dinner plate. Sort of like my incessant harping about building your own engine - this is just an escalation of that rant.

I do understand the access to machinery problem but the actual machinery needed is pretty proletariat. Most of us either know someone or have bumped into someone that has a lathe and/or mill. If you haven't you will, this hobby just does that to you. The skills necessary to do the job are also relatively straight forward and easily learned, especially if you know or have met someone with the equipment.

One of the things that you will always find a use for is a lathe and they can be had cheaper than most people would suspect. The cost savings in parts fabricated or repaired will more than pay for the tool in a short period of time. Remember you don't need a current production CNC version. What you are looking for is a good used piece with tooling at a fair price. Here is an example of one from ebay right now:

This is surplus equipment bought out of some business that closed. If there are a couple of guys local to each other that chip in, the individual cost of the tool can be less than a set of pistons.

This is an example of a vertical mill without a DRO that was a tool room mill, you can tell by the 32" table, but it is more than adequate for 99% of the work we would do on our cars.

This is another vertical mill but with the longer table and a brand new digital read out (DRO), along with additional tooling.

The tooling you will need for these machines can typically be found at bargain basement pricing (~$25 or so) on ebay and are more than adequate for, again, 99% of what we do with the equipment for our hobby. Many times you will discover the machine already comes with a fairly good complement of tooling.

You can build or repair almost anything you have on the car with these two pieces of machinery and they are very inexpensive buys (even more so if two or more guys go in on it together). These types of machines can easily pay for themselves after building or repairing toys for the car only a few items.

Because you don't need the machines for a production job next week you have the luxury of being a vulture that can sit on the sidelines waiting for the "right" machine at the "right" price. If you want to reduce the shipping expense and see and touch the merchandise in person before you buy, you can find a local Machinery Exchange in your own city that buys machines from companies that went out of business. Once you decide which one you want to buy it becomes a local delivery.

These machine tools are a logical next step for many of us, fit into a garage easily and don't break the budget. Check out your local exchanges and any businesses that have closed up. You'll be amazed at some of the deals that are laying around unnoticed waiting to be snapped up. :beerchug:

Ed

 

awesome write up!! :rockon:

 

Ed is the man for a home made clutch. Thanks for the tour around your house and around the shop. Fell in love with the beautifull block you have there Ed. I'll be conctating you soon about some parts.

-Lance

 

Ed is the man for a home made clutch. Thanks for the tour around your house and around the shop. Fell in love with the beautifull block you have there Ed. I'll be conctating you soon about some parts.

-Lance

Thanks for the kind words and I'll be looking forward to the chat Lance.

BTW on a different but related issue, it looks like the pistons are on target for an end of month birthday. I'll keep you posted as things develop.

Ed

 

Great stuff, Ed! Thanks for the heads-up.

 

Awesome!

I like the floater plate design, where you rely on direct plate to flywheel pin contact compared to the more common "strap" design.

I had a southbend dual disk clutch in a dodge truck, and it had this type of design. It did create some rattle, but this seems obviously stronger than relying on small straps to secure the flywheel to the floater plate.

 

Neil,

By controlling the fit of the floater to the stands you can virtually eliminate the clanging in neutral that some people find offensive. Your observation about strength is right on target. You will not find any straps in a blown alcohol clutch - they use stands very similar to those in this clutch, except they are adjustable.

You can make the clutch velvety soft or have a controlled slip at launch for quick 60 ft times. Best part is total cost of ownership is <$600 and it is rebuildable by you for cheap dollars. It really is a forever piece.

Ed

 

Looking back through some photos, I remember now that southbend's design is slightly different as well. They have small polymer "pucks" that are attached to the floater plate. And, rather than round strands as your design has, southbend basically uses 4 square sections machined out of the flywheel "OD ring" that the floater plate mates to.

This was their 3250 "street" model, their SFI clutches do not have these "pucks"

Unfortunately, after owning the clutch for less than a year, some of the pucks on mine must have came loose and fell off which instantly created a terrible chatter. Southbend stood behind their product and replaced the entire assembly for free, but I still wonder if using the polymer pucks was a good idea.

(sorry for large pics)

For those wondering what "straps" are... you can see how the Mcleod RXT is designed:

Ed, I've got to say that from an engineering standpiont you seem to have the most robust flywheel to floater plate design of anything going for our application.

 

Neil,

The problem with pucks is two fold. One is what you experienced with puck "fallout" the other is the damage they incur with dragstrip type starts. Launches are brutal on clutch parts. You really need the strength of steel which is why I used the steel stands in my design. The blown alcohol race clutch uses adjustable titanium stands. They're a bit over the top for our application.

Ed

 

Also, I'm sure individual strands are much better suited for the application compared to a solid protruded OD ring like Southbend's. With a diesel engine, the weight of the flywheel is probably not really an issue though..

 

It's less the weight of the flywheel, although that and maintenance are both considerations Neil. The real problem is the way the floater hits the cutout recesses walls when you launch the car. On the street it will produce a noticeable clank and at the track the impact at launch will eventually break something. The straps are an improvement for low loading situations and certainly for eliminating the clank. For high load environments and especially on something like a road race car that will use the engine for braking, a robust stand is a much preferred design.

Ed

 

So Ed, you referred me to the thread, does that mean your gonna make one up for me? . You can PM me if you want, but this does look like a nice alternative to the RXT I was considering ordering.

 

+1 I'm in for a "steak on my dinner plate" as well over and RXT.

 

+1 Ill take a cheaper custom steak over a warehouse steak any day!

 

You guys are bad :deshade::tooth:.

While I would make them for you if I had the time resource I don't right now (there are several other replacement items in redesign right now that will have appeal also). More importantly the idea behind the storyline is that this is simple enough that you can easily do it yourself and save a boat load of money. Even if you do not have the machinery or access to the machinery these are simple machining operations that a local job shop is easily capable of performing for you and you can still create an easily rebuildable (by you) clutch / flywheel ass'y at a stunningly low price.

The key words here are rebuildable and stunningly low. As I point out in the thread you can make the clutch as aggressive or docile as you prefer and save a boat load of money. Clutches look sophisticated until you begin to dig into them and then the magic fades fairly quickly and the mechanical properties and operational design become a familiar and duplicable phenomena.

While the approach is not for everyone, it is for many and it is not a particularly sophisticated process. For those who are interested in trying I can supply you with dimensional and machining information to make your efforts easier.


Ed

 

Is this clutch in use, Ed?

And....I will take you up on the info. Could you please email me (kelly@bmrsuspension.com) the information? Anything I will need. I likely wont make it, as I also do not have the time....but I do have some awesome machine shops to work with.

Thanks for anything you can share Ed. You are the man.

 

That particular one is not yet Kelly, but it is the third one I have done for different cars that I have had in service. The wear characteristics are very good and the street manners are comparably good depending on the disc materials and hub choice which turns out to be the real magic if there is any. When you go to a drag race only version of the clutch I use an aggressive facing material in stead of the softer organic facings you would use for a street clutch and I also do not use a marcel spring between the lining and the disk plate. In fact you can not use a Marcel spring with a sintered iron facing. The exception to that rule is if you use sintered iron pucks instead of a bonded full face disc. For the extremes of a drag clutch I prefer the bonded full face sintered iron disc.

The use of a marcel spring reduces the stack height of the clutch pack which makes matching it to the available splines on the input shaft easier. With the sprung hub that is on some disc designs the assembled height of the disc pack and floater becomes too high to allow the sprung hubs to clear each other and also other components. The wavy Marcel spring that fits between the lining and the disc drive plate provides the necessary soft engagement you want to see on the street and the short stack height I was looking for.

For a street clutch the Marcel spring gives you the smooth engagement and the organic linings also help. For a race clutch the organic linings fade fairly fast with heat so I look at other lining choices. You need to be deliberate in the use of sintered iron facings. The sintered iron has tremendous power transmission capabiities which is the good part, the bad part is the sintered iron has tremendous power transmission capabilities - it is easy to over clutch the car. When you over clutch the car the clutch acts very aggressively and does not provide the sliding effect you want to have to launch a drag car.

For virtually all of our engine choices a single disc sintered iron version is more than adequate. When you leave you want the clutch to literally slide as the car leaves the starting line until the engine rpm and the vehicle speed equalize. At that point you want the clutch to lock and stay locked for the rest of the run. The only variable you have to work with on the diagphram clutch is plate load. The easiest way to adjust it is shim the pressure plate closer to or further away from the flywheel for the weight and power of your particular combination. Closer in makes the plate load higher and engagement more aggressive. Further out has the opposite effect. To do this stuff at the track requires a fairly good sized access hole on the bottom of the bellhousing to work through.

Just in case anyone is contemplating a 10 inch dual disc with sintered iron discs you are going to need upwards of 1700 ft/lbs of torque to make it work properly. Dual disc and triple disc sintered iron clutches are blown alcohol class clutches they are definitely not for our types of applications. A single sintered iron disc and the proper plate load is impressive beyond words.

With respect to the dimensions I'll dig them out and post them up in a bit. I think I hit most of them in the thread but they tend to be interspersed thorough out the build when they become an issue. The ones I didn't publish I believe are the X-Y co-ordinates for the heat shield pucks. I'll dig them all out and put them up later for you.

The really neat thing about this clutch is you as the creator have complete control over just how robust you want to make it and you have a clutch that is rebuildable instead of a throwaway consumable.

Ed

 

I would like the info as well Ed. Ill be needing it for my build, and im all about cheap.

THanks again for all the work and info, invaluable!

Thanks for bumping this thread up Kelly! I was going to pay for a custom dual disc setup! Woot Woot!

Edit,

It also looks like the clutch is no longer available, and the flywheel is a little bit more spendy than when Ed made this post.

Clutch is 230$ for a similar version, and the flywheel is 260$. Still a lot cheaper than a full price dual clutch setup. Just hope all this will work the same from everything Ed did.