Last step is my fav!

 

Sweet! I'm suprised its not raining up there, been pouring here since Monday......

I'm going to do mine soon too.. How long did it take ya?

 

when i took mine out, i was amazed on how fuel can even flow through that thing LOL!

 

Awsome! Glad your hesitation is gone now! I told ya so!! :beerchug:

 

Sweet! I'm suprised its not raining up there, been pouring here since Monday......

I'm going to do mine soon too.. How long did it take ya?

it has been raing the last 8 days strait here. I guess it was raining in Portland (20 miles south of here) all day today. Wasn't really nice, mostly cloudy but the roads were dry. Supposed to rain the next 10 days now. Glad I got a decent afternoon to get this done. It took me about 1 1/2 hours total labor time to get the tank dropped, swap the valve for the 3/8 fitting, and put the tank back up. one major thing that helped in not making a mess, is I put the back up on ramps, started it, pulled the fuel pump fuse and let the car run on the decline angle till it died. It sucked all the fuel right out of the lines, so not a drop of fuel when I disconnected the tank from the filter. screw the whole shrader valve thing, that still leaves tons of fuel in the lines to make a mess. Over all strait forward job. The only PITA was trying to finagle the tank towards the drivers side to get the filler neck out of the tank itself. As someone stated in my other thread, make sure you feel all around the tank before lowering it to make sure the EVAP lines are out of the retaining clips. Also, as per recommendation, I undid the tank side off the fuel filter and dropped the whole line down with the tank. It's not mounted to anything else besides the pump outlet and then right to the filter. Oh yeah, most important, MAKE SURE you get as much fuel out as possible. Some told me to make sure that there was less then 1/4 tank. I ran mine down to just over the red empty mark. there was about 3 gallons left in the tank from what I could tell after filling the tank during the test drive. I'd recommend getting it ever lower if possible. It was still a bit heavy when I dropped it.

 

Awsome! Glad your hesitation is gone now! I told ya so!! :beerchug:

yes, yes you did! I owe ya a beer brother!!:beerchug:

 

lol I love how you include the dog in the steps...

 

lol I love how you include the dog in the steps...

yeah LOL, she was glad to assist in the distruction!!:rockon:

 

:blink: Is removing this valve only beneficial if you are using forced induction?

 

Is the PPRV used only on the blown cobras?

 

nice job! ed fixed mine in the tune should i do this too?

 

Is the PPRV used only on the blown cobras?

not sure if it is a cobra only thing. The only reason I had to remove it is because on quite a few KB and Whipple cars pushing 17# and above of boost there is a hesitation issue at throttle tip in after a shift following a WOT pull. I haven't seen may if any eaton cars with this problem. Maybe there are a few I don't know. Mostly like I said KB and Whipple guys. There will be no benifit for you by removing it if you indeed have one.

 

thanks, My GT is still N/A and with 3 kids, I will probably not add forced induction to my car until the oldest gets out of college and the 2000 GT is a classic car!

 

So that's what they look like inside :blink:

 

So that's what they look like inside :blink:

yep!! hehe, I had to pound the hell out of that little shit to get it to bust!!

 

First off, that you to everyone who gave advise about dropping the fuel tank. You guys rule!:beerchug:
Everything went rather smoothly with the bypass install. Took the car out and beat the hell out of her. NOT ONE HESITATION!!!! :clap: I'm convinced that the PPRV was the culprit. I am soooo happy now. The car runs tons better!! Thank you to everyone that gave advise to remove it. Now, for the fun part!!

STEPS THAT NEED TO BE DONE AFTER PPRV REMOVAL!

so is there any bad side effect too removing the PPRV.I have and new tune from ed at RWTD to install when i get my 3" (17psi)kb pulley and he has some update in the tune for me to try and see what happens,but i like the idea of removing the PPRV to get more fuel flow quicker.

 

I deleted my PPRV as well a few weeks ago. Night and day difference. Hesitation is history.

Car cranks for about two more seconds than it did before at start up when it's cold, or sits for a couple days.

The PPRV valve closes when the ignition is turned off, because of fuel pressure being decreased. In turn, the check valve holds fuel in the lines at all times, for easy start up. The increased cranking time is getting fuel in the lines from the tank.

The main reason for the hesitation is on a hard decel, the valve closes and holds fue to the tank side, in case the decel is from an accident or whatever, to minimize fuel to the engine side. On a hard WOT pull, and letting off than flooring it, the valve does not know the driver is doing a hard pull, so it closes for a brief second, hence the hesitation. This may not be a perfect explanation, but it is how I understand the theory from reading up on it. And, it's in all returnless style fuel systems.

J.R.

 

it has been raing the last 8 days strait here. .

Could you please send some of that rain down here... half our county has been on fire for 2 weeks.

 

hmm, maybe i should do this in my car too...

JR wanna help me

 

I also have the hesitation running 2.2KB at 17lbs------Are you guys running your Bap all the time or off th hobs switch, I am running off the hobs switch------Scott

 

I also have the hesitation running 2.2KB at 17lbs------Are you guys running your Bap all the time or off th hobs switch, I am running off the hobs switch------Scott

i removed the hobbs switch and am running it full time @ 35% as per James @ RWTD's suggestion as well as a few others.

 

No hobbs switch here. Mine's at 30%. I have Focus pumps, wire upgrade and BAP. My FPDM has NOT been modified, so about 30% on BAP is max I can go with the Focus pumps, until driver module is upgraded by MJ Chip. My fuel pump duty cycle is 84-86 %, so it's in good shape. That's with a Whipple at 22 psi and 60's.

Prasad, didn't know your car was hesitating? I had mine taking out when it got retuned, but am sure we could knock that job out on my lift at the house. Let me know.
We are leaving this Thursday for World Ford Challenge and won't be back until Monday.

 

No hobbs switch here. Mine's at 30%. I have Focus pumps, wire upgrade and BAP. My FPDM has NOT been modified, so about 30% on BAP is max I can go with the Focus pumps, until driver module is upgraded by MJ Chip. My fuel pump duty cycle is 84-86 %, so it's in good shape. That's with a Whipple at 22 psi and 60's.

Prasad, didn't know your car was hesitating? I had mine taking out when it got retuned, but am sure we could knock that job out on my lift at the house. Let me know.
We are leaving this Thursday for World Ford Challenge and won't be back until Monday.

JR my setup is like yours.. hobbs switched wired fulltime w/ the fuel wire upgrade.

my car hesitates every now and then between shifts but not that often. But I figuer it can't hurt to take it out.

i'll shoot a PM later on sometime to do it. My new clutch is going in tomorrow or wednesday...

 

First off, that you to everyone who gave advise about dropping the fuel tank. You guys rule!:beerchug:
Everything went rather smoothly with the bypass install. Took the car out and beat the hell out of her. NOT ONE HESITATION!!!! :clap: I'm convinced that the PPRV was the culprit. I am soooo happy now. The car runs tons better!! Thank you to everyone that gave advise to remove it. Now, for the fun part!!

STEPS THAT NEED TO BE DONE AFTER PPRV REMOVAL!

so is there any bad side effect too removing the PPRV.I have and new tune from ed at RWTD to install when i get my 3" (17psi)kb pulley and he has some update in the tune for me to try and see what happens,but i like the idea of removing the PPRV to get more fuel flow quicker.

my car does the same thing! i will be removing that valve as soon as i burn up the full tank!

i went to the track friday and bogged every time going into second and 3rd! people there thought i couldnt shift. my ets sucked and i was bummed!

i also talked to ED today and he is sending me the updated tune for the issue also! man i hope this works!

 

where is the valve located?

would it hurt to do to an Eaton car? I'm planning on doing some GT pumps anyways....