[jrgoffin]

Apologies for the sabbatical over the last few weeks, but between Bronchitis, stuff at home, work (once I went back) then tax time, it's been crazy. Fortunately, things slowed down a bit today and I was finally able to dive back in to this re-torque project. I did start on the driver's side before I began hacking up my lungs, but essentially wrapped it up today and just have to put it all back together sometime tomorrow.

While the driver's side is a pain thanks to the master cylinder and hydro-boost unit, it's only slightly bit more of a nightmare than the passenger side, that is if you don't enjoy cracking open the fuel line and lifting all that stuff out of the way. At least on this side, once you wrestle with the hydro-boost, there is a bit more room since the strut tower is a couple inches farther away.

In any case, here's some of the play-by-play...

Crawl under the dash and start with the three studs holding the hydro-boost on. Fortunately, they are only torqued to 19 ft/lbs, so they come off easily enough (the fourth is accessed at the firewall in the engine compartment). You'll need a swivel and some extensions, but it isn't too bad. I also removed the brake pedal position switch connector since it made it easier to get the extension fed up there (the brake pressure switch also comes off soon after). You have to also pull the pin holding the push rod on and remove the switch, but it's easy enough.

Here's the view to get started:

What comes off:

Now for the real fun. The basics first are to remove the COP covers and COP's, disconnect the clutch cable, remove the bolts holding the power steering reservoir, un-bolt the dipstick tube (you have to pull it up slightly to swivel it out of the way), then get some of the wiring and vacuum lines out of the way as you see fit. I found it easiest to separate the MC from the booster (might be the norm), which is preceded by removing the nut in the fender that holds the distribution block in place.

Here's that stud as an FYI with the nut already out (easily accessed by lifting the body up a few inches):

Next, remove the two MC retaining nuts. You'll need an extension and possibly a swivel to get at the lower one, which is on a threaded stud, by the way (the upper is easy). Mine ended up backing out - it's reverse threaded in to the hydro-boost body - but it was actually easier to have it removed. This is what that assembly looks like:

From here, you have to "massage" the MC out and forward, which is aided by unclipping the hard lines from the plastic blocks on the frame and under the radiator. An extra set of hands helps here to hang on to the MC (don't grab it by the reservoir!!!), which gives you room to pull the hydro-boost forward and up like so:

Lifted up on top of the strut tower (luckily there is enough play in the lines, but be gentle with it). It took a bit of wiggling to remove the valve cover, but it wasn't too bad:

Just so the MC isn't flopping around, it was loosely mounted back up:

From there, I broke out the torque wrench and went to work, following in sequence with #'s 11-20 (shown on the diagram in Post #533)

I wanted to experiment with my torque wrench by using it to loosen each stud, and with it set at 85 ft/lbs, I was still able to break each nut loose before it told me I was at the set torque level. I'm not honestly sure if that is normal when using the wrench "backwards", or if it did indicate that the nuts were definitely now NOT at 85 ft/lbs, but I'm sure Ed will chime in on that. In any case, they are all back to the magic number, and I'll check each again in the AM before the valve cover goes back on.

A couple tips on this. First, you'll probably end up stretching the valve cover gaskets a hair, so it's just as easy to splurge for a new set. Since it's a bit of a chore wiggling the cover back in, I put small dabs of silicone in the gasket track and fit it back in, allowing it to dry overnight. It's definitely not going anywhere now, but maybe the Fel-Pro set just has a looser fit than what Ford uses. Don't forget the dabs of silicone at the seams between the heads and timing cover as well. I didn't snap a picture of the driver's side gasket, but here is the passenger side setting up:

Second, since the valve cover bolts have a teflon sealant on them that ends up all over the place when you remove them, I put a small bead around the shaft right under the head as I installed each. I'll do the same on the driver's side, but I wanted to be sure there was no chance of any leaks.

This process was definitely a bit of a chore, but with all that went in to this engine (and the same for anyone else), I'm glad I didn't skip it. Now, it's time to get John's Vampire finally hooked up, put some more miles on, then get ready to have the tune tweaked. More to come soon, hopefully with some video in here as well!

 

[eschaider]

... I wanted to experiment with my torque wrench by using it to loosen each stud, and with it set at 85 ft/lbs, I was still able to break each nut loose before it told me I was at the set torque level. I'm not honestly sure if that is normal when using the wrench "backwards", or if it did indicate that the nuts were definitely now NOT at 85 ft/lbs, but I'm sure Ed will chime in on that. In any case, they are all back to the magic number, and I'll check each again in the AM before the valve cover goes back on ...!

The torque wrench should read accurately in both directions Joe because we would use it for both right and left hand threads. I think the distinction between tightening and loosening is the coming up on the torque target and the coming down from the torque target. On the way up as the torque increases the wrench will click at the target you have set as you hit it. In a loosening process even if it was at 85 ft/lbs as you began to loosen the fastener, each increment you move the wrench the fastener is at a lower torque value. Unless the nut is stuck because of a frictional set that it took after torquing it is improbable you will ever see the target torque during the loosening process.

Ed

 

[jrgoffin]

Thanks, Ed. Left-hand threads: didn't even think about it - that's what I get for taking time off!! I thought the wrench may have given me a slight click as I intially pulled, but it makes sense that it would be gone the moment the nut went below the target. Not a big deal thought, they are all back where they need to be. Glad this is about over!

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Ugh, so I have to look forward to that at some point this summer lol. Oh well. Again, this thread is super informative.

 

[408Stang]

Agreed that break away torque is different.... The wrench probably won't click if you use the same setting to remove a nut as what was originally applied.

The part I was referring to in my earlier post about my wrench not clicking when loosening was just an indicator / clue to me that something had loosened up from what I had initially set them too. Or I could have just been tugging on the wrench differently when loosening them.

If you torque to 90 ft lbs I have found about 75 to 80 ft pounds to break it loose. When I was torquing my rod bolts to 75 ft lbs it only took about 68 ft lbs to break them loose.

I guess the above is also why bolt stretch is such an accurate way of measuring bolt torque. The friction of the nut or bolt head is dependent on so many factors, and those factors affect what torque is applied, or what the wrench tells you, whereas stretch doesn't lie.... Too bad it is nearly impossible to measure stretch on a head stud because they tend to move slightly while tightening.

 

[eschaider]

Complete agreement Mike.:beerchug:


Ed

 

[jrgoffin]

Agreed that break away torque is different.... The wrench probably won't click if you use the same setting to remove a nut as what was originally applied.

The part I was referring to in my earlier post about my wrench not clicking when loosening was just an indicator / clue to me that something had loosened up from what I had initially set them too. Or I could have just been tugging on the wrench differently when loosening them.

If you torque to 90 ft lbs I have found about 75 to 80 ft pounds to break it loose. When I was torquing my rod bolts to 75 ft lbs it only took about 68 ft lbs to break them loose.

I guess the above is also why bolt stretch is such an accurate way of measuring bolt torque. The friction of the nut or bolt head is dependent on so many factors, and those factors affect what torque is applied, or what the wrench tells you, whereas stretch doesn't lie.... Too bad it is nearly impossible to measure stretch on a head stud because they tend to move slightly while tightening.

Great way to sum it up and complement what Ed added - many thanks, Mike. I wasn't really sure what to expect when breaking the nuts loose since this was my first time with a head re-torque, let alone use of studs instead of bolts. It probably would have made more sense to check each in the correct direction, but then again, it would have been useless trivia at that point. In any case, I'm glad I tackled this - I'll definitely feel much better when I start putting more RPM's on the engine, especially since the nice weather has finally arrived. Now, time to get on with the Vampire...

 

[jrgoffin]

Everything went back together yesterday and I ran the engine for about 30 minutes - all is well and it's running incredibly smooth. Since the weather was so nice, I would have gone for another drive, but the passenger seat is unbolted as I get ready to wire in the Vampire. Will be out of town a few days for work and will be back at it when I return. May snag a couple video clips soon as well, but for the most part, it's just a matter of putting some easy miles on then having the tune adjusted at some point. Overall, everything has worked out great - time to start enjoying it!

 

[P49Y-CY]

awesome, congrats!! :rock:

 

[oldmodman]

After seeing how much work it is to pull the valve cover in the car I think I will make a run stand and do it with the engine out of the car before I even reinstall it. I am going to look into making an extension wiring harness from junk yard salvaged bits so I can run the engine 10 feet from the car and still use all the car's electronics. Unless I just use the salvaged computer and all the sensors too. I will probably regret this.

 

[04DeadShort]

Sounds like a decent idea, in theory. Lol

 

[eschaider]

... I will probably regret this.

It does seem to have a fair number of the attributes of those projects we wish we never started, Drew

Ed

 

[408Stang]

Did I mention my 3-valve took me 2 hours to retorque both sides...

3-valves rule... Quad cams drool... Lol

 

[sparky1562]

After seeing how much work it is to pull the valve cover in the car I think I will make a run stand and do it with the engine out of the car before I even reinstall it. I am going to look into making an extension wiring harness from junk yard salvaged bits so I can run the engine 10 feet from the car and still use all the car's electronics. Unless I just use the salvaged computer and all the sensors too. I will probably regret this.

I am seriously considering this. My build is a ground up 62 Fairlane. My body is in Primer. Either that or i will Mock it all back up and get it running, then tear it all back apart for the second time and while they body is in the shop, re-torque everything, and do the final assembly.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

So I'm kinda inspired from this thread now that I have to find monies somewhere in my "budget" build for a Vampire... if a 600-700hp build can even be considered budget... Especially since I am near literally the only public E85 station in this part of my entire state and likely going to get a 93 and E85 tune and a switch to change between the 2. 25 minutes to E85 station=filling with 93 at a station 5 minutes from me if I'm lazy or just out of fuel.

 

[eschaider]

It is distinctly not to your advantage to build an engine for fuel that is not readily obtainable.

Ed

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Agreed, probably just run 93 and only go to gas stations I trust to not put 87 in all the tanks...

Also from this thread I mentioned to a local builder that a lot of ppl use about re-torquing an all aluminum motor after the first initial heat cycle and he said with ARP studs it isn't required... even with 8740 studs. I read this thread multiple times now and to me the re-torque does make sense and better safe than sorry...

 

[jrgoffin]

Also from this thread I mentioned to a local builder that a lot of ppl use about re-torquing an all aluminum motor after the first initial heat cycle and he said with ARP studs it isn't required... even with 8740 studs. I read this thread multiple times now and to me the re-torque does make sense and better safe than sorry...

While it is not "required", it is great insurance. Despite this last step being a bit of a pain, I'm real glad I did it, and I'll be much more comfortable when winding up the RPM's. With as much money that goes in to these engines, there is just no sense in cutting ANY corners!!!!

On that note, while the cold weather and rain has settled in here in NE OH, I decided to peruse my "Build Binder" to tally up all the money that has gone in to this project. I was fortunate to get deals on a lot of components, and selling some things off paid down or paid for others. The OE cams in the new heads were sold for $200 which covered the '98 Cobra cams, for example, and the OE long-block brought in some decent coin. That definitely helped, as well as spreading the costs out by acquiring some items over a drawn out period while I waited to get started.

This project definitely had a lot of "bang for the buck" in it, but it could have been a lot worse - which will be the case for a lot of guys diving in to it. I also left out all the specialty tools I acquired, along with miscellaneous nuts, bolts, RTV, assembly lube, etc., so the figure below is just a base. My starter tune was also a freebie, but I'll plan on going back to that shop at some point for some dyno time and an updated tune, so that will probably be a few hundred dollars more, at least.

The bottom line: there really is no cheap way to build a mod motor!!

P.S. No progress on the Vampire, but hoping to get back on it tomorrow. Pictures will definitely be in order soon enough.

 

[408Stang]

That's about the same price for me... But I also did a tubular K-member and A-arms, and Kooks long tubes and H-pipe... My total is around $10,000 start to finish. That includes specialty tools and the offset of selling other parts and pieces from the old motor.

I consider this a bargain considering a friend of mine did a 2014 GT500 motor in his 2010 GT for $25,000, and that's doing the install himself.... . I make more power, did all the work myself, and spent a LOT less.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Nice, saved that pic for a reference of how much more $$$ I need to finish mine. If you think you are on a budget... you should see my price list lol. I'm even sticking with the cast crank for free. I just picked up a fully finished WAP block .020 over, decked and line honed and only a few hours on the dyno for $300 locally... Got my Cobra intake and low mileage B heads and FRPP shorties for free after selling the stuff they came with. Cast crank is free... Got my entire fully optioned 34k mile Steeda GT with the Novi 2000 for $5500 (bad wrist pin). Craigslist for me or this skrit isn't getting done...

So basically opposite of what you are doing lol. I am going to pony up for the Cobra Engineering stuff tho and obviously new ARP stuff, Stewart pump and 3V oil pump/boundary gears after reading this thread tho. Again, this is legit the most useful thread I have ever read online for real, I'm not just saying that. And I started in Mustang forums all the way back in 2001 on the Corral... #backintheday

Pic of the $300 WAP block next to the free Teksid I got out of a spare Mark motor a guy just wanted out of his driveway.



CL ftw!