[jrgoffin]

So... You running lower boost...?

Not necessarily. My ported Eaton is probably around 13PSI. May stay with that or step up to a Whipple - haven't decided.

 

[jrgoffin]

Was going to jump over to the timing gear, but since I left off with the oiling (and also listed the Stewart water pump), I wanted to add some comments about the oil cooler adapter gasket. I don't remember off hand if these are still available through Ford any longer, but no matter - if you buy the FelPro "Crank set", CS97904, you will get them for the iron and aluminum blocks. Here's that kit:

At one point, that standard was orange for iron block and blue for aluminum, but these things have come in a few different colors via FelPro, so the easiest way to tell which one you need is by the size of the coolant opening. In the gasket kit I bought, both of them were actually blue (and I have seen red and orange still as well):

For the Aluminator and Teksid blocks, the blue one on the right is correct: it is the one with the slightly larger coolant port. With it loosely attached to the block, the correct fit is obvious.

For some useless trivia, the Aluminator and WAP blocks have only one freeze plug, which is located on the driver's side at the rear of the block. I happened to have been storing a New Old Stock block heater kit, and even though I don't drive my Cobra in the winter, I added the fitting (seen to the right), which will allow me to pre-heat the block during the cold season for the weekly start-up's. If you are a Candian customer, these are standard, but were an option as well for owners in other cold climates. Not really necessary, but just some extra insurance against the cold temps.

Just for the heck of it, here is an official Ford drawing of where the fitting goes. Back to the build stuff shortly.

 

[Edmisten1]

Haha.. We're confusing each other. Allow me to rephrase: you are basically comfortable with only putting 85 lbs of torque on those studs and totally worry free about the head gaskets not sealing and leaking compression into the cooling system or a blown head gasket altogether?

 

[jrgoffin]

I wouldn't say "only" 85 ft/lbs - that is plenty. If you use the standard 8740 studs, the number is lower - as already mentioned. There are plenty of guys using the OEM MLS head gaskets with factory head bolts and running much higher levels of boost than I ever will.

 

[Edmisten1]

I wouldn't say "only" 85 ft/lbs - that is plenty. If you use the standard 8740 studs, the number is lower - as already mentioned. There are plenty of guys using the OEM MLS head gaskets with factory head bolts and running much higher levels of boost than I ever will.

Only 85...good point. Plus at the end of they day we are running fine thread nuts as compared to bolts. Curious, as for the Fel Pro head gaskets, aren't they only 3 layer as compared to the factory 5 layer MLS?

 

[jrgoffin]

They were both four-layer and the OE set was also made by FelPro as far as I know.

FelPro:

OE from Romeo:

 

[eschaider]

The Shelby GT-500 oil pump in next. There is an Oil pump section on my own site with a bunch of info, but I'll add some here. The latest Shelby pump (also the same as the Melling M360), is actually a 3V HV/HP version, but with a monster steel backing plate to keep oil from flowing out there due to flex. The pump can be purchased through Tousley or Tasca for about $75, which is a great deal (p/n DR3Z-6600-A). Also added to the mix is a set of billet steel gears from Boundary Engineering which were just over $200, making this a great bang for the buck.

While Boundary Engineering isn't as common as some of the other shops out there making these gears, I am fully confident that their gears are every bit as good, if not better than the others. If you get a set in your hands, you'll most likely think the same. The company's owner, Travis, had this to say from another thread:

...I manufacture and design the gears myself. These are made in America, made by me actually. There aren't many that actually know how to design a trochoidal gerotor pump, but I'm one of them. I didn't hit the copy key, these use a unique pattern that mitigates the torsion moments on the teeth and creates a bigger pumping chamber. We have thousands of my designed gears floating in different vehicles, and many house name my brand. I challenge you to find one that has failed.

Fine by me. Anyway, here are the billet gears next to the powdered metal stock set:

View attachment 135665

Adding these gears to a pump is a no-brainer: unscrew the back plate, remove the old set, and insert the new. This pump in the picture is actually another 3V pump that I had and decided not to use, but you get the idea:

View attachment 135673

The steel backing plate goes back on easily on the actual Shelby pump and the screws get torqued down to 89 in/lbs. Before mounting it, I also added a small bead of anaerobic gasket maker around the port just to keep it completely sealed with the block (some "upgraded" pumps will have an o-ring here):

View attachment 135681

The pump initially attached with three bolts, with a fourth (lower right) added when the timing chain guide is bolted on. You also have to align the two flats inside the gears with those on the crank, but it's pretty straightforward:

View attachment 135689

Once the pump and windage tray are on, it's time to add the pickup. The nice thing about this 3V block is the full-length tray - an "upgrade" over the standard 4V half-length tray. The ARP studs are also specific if you use the tray, and it bolts right back on easily. For guys that have a WAP block and want to add the 3V tray, it's inexpensive through Ford (about $25) as 4R3Z-6687-BA. Here's how it looks:

View attachment 135697

With regards to the pickup, the OEM Terminator (4V) version is pefect since the length allows it to sit about 1/4" above the pan bottom (also measured this with Silly Putty in my Canton pan). Additionally, it is considered a "high-flow funnel type" by Ford, so it never hurts to have the ability to get more oil up top. Here is a comparison picture with a newer style on the left (I have no idea why Ford made the change):

View attachment 135705

One caveat now with the 4V tube is the "scraper" that runs along the front edge. If you are using the full-length tray, it will have to be cut off, which is easy enough. As an alternative, the '05-'10 (3V) pickup will work since the depth is identical, but I believe it is the newer style as seen above left (this one in the picture is for the 5.8 Shelby). In any case, here is a side view of a new pickup - part of the scraper was simply removed with a cut-off wheel tracing the contour of the tube with about 1/2" clearance:

View attachment 135713

Once that is done, it bolts on to the bottom of the pump (don't forget the o-ring!) and to a "stand" on the #4 cap. With an upgrade to the ARP stud kit, you have to have about 0.070" removed from the stand, but that is shown clearly on the instruction sheet that comes with the stud kit (the machine shop handling my block took care of this for me). Here's the final product, and in the second picture, you can also see the new rear main seal plate in place as well:

View attachment 135721

View attachment 135729

From here, the Canton "road race" pan, 15-784 (which was the same used on the 2000 Cobra R), was mounted up. There is also an Oil pan section on my site with some more information there, but bolting on the pan is real simple. Since the rear main seal plate is attached with a bead of RTV under it (I used the Permatex black, which is the same used when the engines were originally built) I also added two small beads at the rail joints before putting the gasket and pan in place. All my gaskets were from FelPro, by the way.

All done, with the timing chain guides added as well:

View attachment 135737

Stay tuned for the rest of the timing gear!

This is one great upgrade Joe! Thanks for taking the time to document it with both words and pictures.

Ed

 

[eschaider]

Well since I'm using the factory cast iron block, would 85 still be a good number or go higher? I'm just a victim of the 90s 5. 0L stuff and you had to torque the head studs down until they almost broke if you wanted to keep the heads from lifting off the block from all the nitrous we were using. And even that seldom worked (o-ringing the block was the only real cure). So I assume 85 would still seal up plenty good for 18+ lbs of boost?

Good instincts to err on the cautious side Jeff. These are different engines though. In some ways they have a decided edge over the old pushrod engines and in others they aren't quite so robust.

The 85 ft/lbs with ARP 2000 studs will seal up just about anything except the big bore (3.700") blocks. For reasons that have not been adequately documented the BOSS 5.0 blocks in supercharged form have a tender spot in the head gasket sealing department. There seem to be no shortage of explanations but in the end the single thread of commonality is they have problems selling up.

A site member from Australia CAT600 (Daniel) built one of the first high power (~1000 wheel) supercharged versions of the BOSS block I am aware of. Daniel had some incipient gasket seal problems and ended up having to go to 110 ft/lbs on the ARP 2000 studs to seal up. This is over the top for both the block and the studs - but it seemed to work for his BOSS block. When Daniel built a twin turbo aluminator engine he instinctively took the ARP 2000 head studs to 100 ft/lbs because of his BOSS block experience. Daniel had two blocks crack on him at the root of the head stud borings with this torque.

If you look at ARP recommended torque specs for 7/16" and 11mm studs it has, as politicians say, evolved over time. BTW 7/16" and 11mm are for all intents and purposes the same size. In decimal fractions of an inch 7/16 is 0.4375" and 11mm is 0.4331"! there is only a 4.4 thousandths of an inch difference and the nod goes to the 7/16 side of the table in the size department.

Consider the following published recommendations over time taken from ARP's own catalog;

Somehow I have managed to loose my 2010 catalog.so the 2010 figures are unavailable. What is clear form the other catalog's is ARP has 'evolved' their thinking between 2009 and 2011. The earlier years used a lower spec and were probably closer to the mark. In later years higher spec not withstanding ARP 8740 studs began to experience failure at installation. The failure may have been attributable to getting ARP anti-friction lube on the under side of the washer or it could have been for other reasons. The important thing is they began to fail at installation prior to engine startup. The ARP 2000 steel studs never exhibited this premature failure syndrome.

My recommendations for torque specs for the two different steels today are; ARP 8740 studs - 75 ft/lbs and ARP 2000 studs - 85 ft/lbs. Additionally I would not use 8740 studs on a supercharged engine, only on a n/a engine. The fear of the 85 ft/lb torque not sealing up (especially at our boost levels) is unfounded. Unless you have an abnormal combustion event like detonation the 85 ft/lb torque spec will easily seal up a supercharged mod motor. For the Doubting Thomas crowd, Mihovitz who runs substantially more boost than anyone on this site recommends and claims to use 85 ft/lbs for his ARP 2000 head stud torque spec.

There is a wonderful concept called adequacy. It is the polar opposite of an age old racer modicum. The racer modicum goes something like,"If a little is good more is better and too much is not enough"! I recommend the adequacy model, it uses up a lot less parts.

Ed

 

[eschaider]

One additional comment on the Teksid and WAP gaskets for the oil and water manifold on the driverside of the block. These things can get tricky. If you have any doubt lay the gasket up against the block and visually check before buttoning things up.

The gasket on the right with the provision for a taller water inlet is the WAP block gasket and also the 99 Teksid block gasket.

The gasket on the left with the shorter water inlet is the pre-99 Teksid gasket and also a variety of iron blocks.

Ed

 

[cj428mach]

On my car I'm running the 8740 head studs and the instructions they came with said torque to 80ftlb. These head studs were purchased back in the spring of 2015. I'm running them with Felpro
Part # 26222PT (right)
Part # 26187PT (left)
head gaskets at almost 23 psi on my terminator. So far no issues *knocks on the wooden desk*..

 

[jrgoffin]

This is one great upgrade Joe! Thanks for taking the time to document it with both words and pictures.

Ed

NP, Ed - glad to share some good info. The gears are so nice, that I hope Travis will see an increase in business. With as much as I'm spending on this engine, I have complete confidence that his gears will suit me quite well!

Also, thanks for adding the ARP info. I had forgotten to mention John Mihovitz and his insistence that 85 ft/lbs was the perfect number, despite how ARP has altered it over the years.

On my car I'm running the 8740 head studs and the instructions they came with said torque to 80ftlb. These head studs were purchased back in the spring of 2015. I'm running them with Felpro
Part # 26222PT (right)
Part # 26187PT (left)
head gaskets at almost 23 psi on my terminator. So far no issues *knocks on the wooden desk*..

Great to hear that, Mike. There are probably plenty of guys that have had no problems, so that is good. I figured it was worth the upgrade, so I'll count on these being perfect as well. I definitely wanted to avoid this at all costs when it came to the 8740's:

 

[Edmisten1]

Ed, very good info on the torque specs. 85 ft lbs it is. Like you said, these mod motors are in many ways superior to the old push rod v8 SBF's of yesteryear. And it seems that head gasket sealing is one of those areas since it is rarely, if ever, reported someone experiences a head gasket leak/failure. I'm just being paranoid since I fought that for years back in the 90s. I distinctly remember with vivid clarity putting those motors together with head studs torqued to a ridiculous amount and Fel Pro 1011-1 head gaskets and as soon as you hit the second stage of nitrous, you got a gallon of coolant splashed all over the windshield from the heads literally lifting off the block and compression flooding the cooling system... Good times lol.

Great documentation Jr. Like someone else commented, these build threads never get old. Your build is very impressive. Your meticulous attention to detail in admirable. I wish I had the cash flow to fund some other parts, but I have spared no expense on the must have parts. For what I'm doing and the power level I'm at, I'm quite certain that with good fuel, this will be the first - and last - time I have to do this... Lesson learned, albeit the hard way, for me

 

[eschaider]

NP, Ed - glad to share some good info. The gears are so nice, that I hope Travis will see an increase in business. With as much as I'm spending on this engine, I have complete confidence that his gears will suit me quite well!

Also, thanks for adding the ARP info. I had forgotten to mention John Mihovitz and his insistence that 85 ft/lbs was the perfect number, despite how ARP has altered it over the years.

Great to hear that, Mike. There are probably plenty of guys that have had no problems, so that is good. I figured it was worth the upgrade, so I'll count on these being perfect as well. I definitely wanted to avoid this at all costs when it came to the 8740's:

View attachment 135833

That is the exact failure mode Joe. As the engine builder you will notice it as a mushiness on the pull of the torque wrench as you approach target torque. The mushy feeling is the stud necking down in the root of the thread just before the main shank of the stud as your picture illustrates. When this happens the stud has to be replaced. My recommendation is not to risk the failure and just go directly to ARP 2000 studs. If you already have an engine assembled successfully with 8740's then replace them on the next build or swap them out one stud at a time in the torque sequence as you did.

Ed

 

[jrgoffin]

That is the exact failure mode Joe. As the engine builder you will notice it as a mushiness on the pull of the torque wrench as you approach target torque. The mushy feeling is the stud necking down in the root of the tread just before the main shank of the stud as your picture illustrates. When this happens the stud has to be replaced. My recommendation is not to risk th failure and just go directly to ARP 2000 studs. If you already have an engine assembled successfully with 8740's then replace them on the next build or swap them out one stud at a time in the torque sequence as you did.

Ed

That pic actually came from the experience of someone else on this forum, unfortunately for them. I did also leave out the details that I started with the 8740 studs and then decided to upgrade before the project got too far along. None of the original stud lengths were measured other than eye-balling them, but I do admit that they looked fine with the naked eye, even though two of them felt kind of "funny" when I was torquing them down the first time. With specific specs and stretch values measured to the thousandth of an inch, I sure didn't want to take any chances and was happy to throw another $100 at ARP for the better studs. They should have been on the menu in the first place, but it was easy to trade up this early in the build!

 

[jrgoffin]

Next up: timing components!

I had initially thought - well, for a brief moment - about just putting in stock gears and settings the stock cams all at "zero" based on the Ford procedure. Fortunately, I saw the light and realized that DOHC cams have to be precisely set, especially when a lot of dollars are going in to the engine (again, I also picked up a real nice set of '98 cams - nothing too radical). Since this is a new build, I wasn't going to scavenge any parts off another engine, so the first addition to the timing components pile of parts was the FRPP M-6004-A464 kit:

For what is contained within, it really is a fantastic deal at just over $400, especially with the all-iron tensioners. While I'll be using those tensioners, the OEM chains, guides, and intake cam spacers, it was also convenient to get a whole lot of little stuff like new timing cover bolts and gaskets, front crank seal, and even the crank trigger wheel. If you buy all these items from Ford (even at Tousley or Tasca prices), you'll still come in at over $600. If you are someone who is planning to use the OEM sprockets, the kit is an even better deal since the price for all those items will still add another $200 or so.

As for seeing the light, the degreeing process will be accomplished thanks to all new Cloyes billet gears. For anyone that has tackled this, the Cloyes gear really can't be beat (not counting a couple manufacturing glitches from back in '07 or so). Unfortunately, factor in another $450 or so on their adjustable cam sprockets (buy all four), the billet one-piece crank gear, and a real nice primary gear kit. Adding to that, you'll still have to pick up the appropriate tools to to the job, so figure another $300-ish there.

Here are those items and the prices I paid through Autoplicity (drop-shipped right from Cloyes, and arrived in three days).

#S790HP9 cam gears, 4 @ $37 ea:

#S869HP crank gear, $36:

#93169A primary gear set, $256:

Cloyes also sells all these items as a complete kit, with the exception of the cam gears where only two are adjustable there, AND they include chains. For anyone serious about this, just stay with the OEM Morse chains - they really can take a beating, although I think the new "Z" chain of theirs may be on par with the factory secondary. Just in case, if you decide that this is the easier way to go, this kit carries the Cloyes p/n 93175A, which was about $460 the last time I checked:

Anyway, here is a page from the Cloyes catalog that lays out all the DOHC parts, but it's a bit easier to read if you go to their site and download the whole thing in PDF format (http://www.cloyes.com/Images/CloyesHP_Catalog.pdf):

For now, everything was installed in the "zero" positions in preparation for dialing it all in (more details on that when I get it documented), so here is a run through on getting everything set up. Incidentally, the Ford shop manual has this process documented quite well as do the instructions for the FRPP kit. If you need a service manual, whether the electronic version or the monsted PDF document, they are both available on my SVT Documents page. Also, the FRPP instructions, in PDF format, are available right from the FRPP site (which also includes a parts list for the kit).

Moving right along. With the aid of the OTC 6498 DOHC cam kit, I made sure the crank was set so piston #1 (& #6) was at TDC using the special tool. The key will actually be at the 315° position, not straight up. The chain guides are also in position, and once the crank is lined up correctly, you remove the tool and set the crank gear on with the small flange facing out (the timing dot will be visible as seen in the picture up above).

Once the cams are in, their keyways need to be set to the six o-clock position in relation to the head (perpendicular to the deck) and then held in position, also with a tool from the OTC kit. Here's how it looks from behind the head (driver's side shown for reference):

When getting the secondary chains ready to go, pay attention since the cam gears go on differently for each side. It isn't real obvious with any of the documentation, but the sprockets have a flange that faces out for the passenger side, but in (towards the back of the head) on the driver's side. If you don't figure it out when sliding the chains over the tensioner pads, it will become obvious when you try to mount the primary gears. Here is the passenger side chain and gears with the dots on each gear adjacent to the marked link, and the flange facing out:

The driver's side, with the flange oriented at the rear (the dots are marked on both sides, so don't worry):

Before installing the secondary chains on the cams, you also want to install each tensioner there since the chains slip over them (although it is actually a real snug fit when the chains are new). On that note, three of the four tensioners actually are placed against the "slack" side of the chain, which is correct. That would be both primary chains, and the driver's side secondary chain (the one in between the cams). Think of a bicycle sprocket turning, looking at it from the right - the drive side is the upper chain, and the slack side is underneath. For whatever reason, Ford used a fourth tensioner on the passenger side that faces down, like on the driver's side, but this is not the slack side of the chain - the top is.

Not to worry though, since James at Cobra Engineering has made a billet tensioner body that you simply swap out the parts from the OEM verision, and mount this on in the correct fashion. It's simple, and perfect (details here). It literally takes just a minute to make the modification, which is well worth it for the timing to be precise. Here are the tensioners bolted on ready to go (with the Mini Cooper bolts and washer shown for reference):

From here, the chain/sprocket assembly slides on to the cam pairs (also with the cam keys installed, but with the bolts, washer, and intake spacer removed first!). Here's the driver's side for reference - note the keyway position:

Once these chains are on, you have to pull the pins in each tensioner before moving on to the primary gears which mount on each exhaust cam. Just to be safe, verify that each chain is centered on the tensioner pad (in case you got the cam sprockets on backwards). The drivers side looks like this, and it's similar on the passenger side (note the pin is still in, but it was removed right after):

Coming up shortly, the big chains!

 

[BlueScreen]

That pic actually came from the experience of someone else on this forum, unfortunately for them.

I'm to one that took the pictures and broke that stud. There was a paper in the stud box from ARP that indicated a 90ft-lbs torque on those 8740 stud. It was fine the first time I used them. I had problem with head gaskets due to a not straight deck. Then when I rebuilt the engine and torqued those studs a second time to 90ft-lbs, this particular one felt mushy exactly as Ed described it. Most of the other studs felt strange but torqued still torqued to 90ft-lbs. They also stretched but not as much as this one. Lesson learned, I only use ARP 2000 @ 85ft-lbs now.

 

[Edmisten1]

Next up: timing components!

I had initially thought - well, for a brief moment - about just putting in stock gears and settings the stock cams all at "zero" based on the Ford procedure. Fortunately, I saw the light and realized that DOHC cams have to be precisely set, especially when a lot of dollars are going in to the engine (again, I also picked up a real nice set of '98 cams - nothing too radical). Since this is a new build, I wasn't going to scavenge any parts off another engine, so the first addition to the timing components pile of parts was the FRPP M-6004-A464 kit:

View attachment 135889

For what is contained within, it really is a fantastic deal at just over $400, especially with the all-iron tensioners. While I'll be using those tensioners, the OEM chains, guides, and intake cam spacers, it was also convenient to get a whole lot of little stuff like new timing cover bolts and gaskets, front crank seal, and even the crank trigger wheel. If you buy all these items from Ford (even at Tousley or Tasca prices), you'll still come in at over $600. If you are someone who is planning to use the OEM sprockets, the kit is an even better deal since the price for all those items will still add another $200 or so.

As for seeing the light, the degreeing process will be accomplished thanks to all new Cloyes billet gears. For anyone that has tackled this, the Cloyes gear really can't be beat (not counting a couple manufacturing glitches from back in '07 or so). Unfortunately, factor in another $450 or so on their adjustable cam sprockets (buy all four), the billet one-piece crank gear, and a real nice primary gear kit. Adding to that, you'll still have to pick up the appropriate tools to to the job, so figure another $300-ish there.

Here are those items and the prices I paid through Autoplicity (drop-shipped right from Cloyes, and arrived in three days).

#S790HP9 cam gears, 4 @ $37 ea:

View attachment 135897

#S869HP crank gear, $36:

View attachment 135905

#93169A primary gear set, $256:

View attachment 135913

Cloyes also sells all these items as a complete kit, with the exception of the cam gears where only two are adjustable there, AND they include chains. For anyone serious about this, just stay with the OEM Morse chains - they really can take a beating, although I think the new "Z" chain of theirs may be on par with the factory secondary. Just in case, if you decide that this is the easier way to go, this kit carries the Cloyes p/n 93175A, which was about $460 the last time I checked:

View attachment 135921

Anyway, here is a page from the Cloyes catalog that lays out all the DOHC parts, but it's a bit easier to read if you go to their site and download the whole thing in PDF format (http://www.cloyes.com/Images/CloyesHP_Catalog.pdf):

View attachment 135929

For now, everything was installed in the "zero" positions in preparation for dialing it all in (more details on that when I get it documented), so here is a run through on getting everything set up. Incidentally, the Ford shop manual has this process documented quite well as do the instructions for the FRPP kit. If you need a service manual, whether the electronic version or the monsted PDF document, they are both available on my SVT Documents page. Also, the FRPP instructions, in PDF format, are available right from the FRPP site (which also includes a parts list for the kit).

Moving right along. With the aid of the OTC 6498 DOHC cam kit, I made sure the crank was set so piston #1 (& #6) was at TDC using the special tool. The key will actually be at the 315° position, not straight up. The chain guides are also in position, and once the crank is lined up correctly, you remove the tool and set the crank gear on with the small flange facing out (the timing dot will be visible as seen in the picture up above).

View attachment 135937

Once the cams are in, their keyways need to be set to the six o-clock position in relation to the head (perpendicular to the deck) and then held in position, also with a tool from the OTC kit. Here's how it looks from behind the head (driver's side shown for reference):

View attachment 135945

When getting the secondary chains ready to go, pay attention since the cam gears go on differently for each side. It isn't real obvious with any of the documentation, but the sprockets have a flange that faces out for the passenger side, but in (towards the back of the head) on the driver's side. If you don't figure it out when sliding the chains over the tensioner pads, it will become obvious when you try to mount the primary gears. Here is the passenger side chain and gears with the dots on each gear adjacent to the marked link, and the flange facing out:

View attachment 135953

The driver's side, with the flange oriented at the rear (the dots are marked on both sides, so don't worry):

View attachment 135961

Before installing the secondary chains on the cams, you also want to install each tensioner there since the chains slip over them (although it is actually a real snug fit when the chains are new). On that note, three of the four tensioners actually are placed against the "slack" side of the chain, which is correct. That would be both primary chains, and the driver's side secondary chain (the one in between the cams). Think of a bicycle sprocket turning, looking at it from the right - the drive side is the upper chain, and the slack side is underneath. For whatever reason, Ford used a fourth tensioner on the passenger side that faces down, like on the driver's side, but this is not the slack side of the chain - the top is.

Not to worry though, since James at Cobra Engineering has made a billet tensioner body that you simply swap out the parts from the OEM verision, and mount this on in the correct fashion. It's simple, and perfect (details here). It literally takes just a minute to make the modification, which is well worth it for the timing to be precise. Here are the tensioners bolted on ready to go (with the Mini Cooper bolts and washer shown for reference):

View attachment 135969

View attachment 135977

From here, the chain/sprocket assembly slides on to the cam pairs (also with the cam keys installed, but with the bolts, washer, and intake spacer removed first!). Here's the driver's side for reference - note the keyway position:

View attachment 135985

Once these chains are on, you have to pull the pins in each tensioner before moving on to the primary gears which mount on each exhaust cam. Just to be safe, verify that each chain is centered on the tensioner pad (in case you got the cam sprockets on backwards). The drivers side looks like this, and it's similar on the passenger side (note the pin is still in, but it was removed right after):

View attachment 135993

Coming up shortly, the big chains!

Great write up with excellent pics and explanation.... bravo sir.

 

[04DeadShort]

Yea great thread. Keep it up.

 

[jrgoffin]

I'm to one that took the pictures and broke that stud. There was a paper in the stud box from ARP that indicated a 90ft-lbs torque on those 8740 stud. It was fine the first time I used them. I had problem with head gaskets due to a not straight deck. Then when I rebuilt the engine and torqued those studs a second time to 90ft-lbs, this particular one felt mushy exactly as Ed described it. Most of the other studs felt strange but torqued still torqued to 90ft-lbs. They also stretched but not as much as this one. Lesson learned, I only use ARP 2000 @ 85ft-lbs now.

Thanks for chiming in: it does seem that 85 ft/lbs is the magic number for the 2000 studs, and I'm sure I'll be content with that figure. Hope you don't mind me borrowing that picture - that was another one that was similar, but couldn't find it and figured yours would work just as well. Glad you were able to add some more to this for everyone's benefit!

 

[jrgoffin]

The primary gears and chains are up next...

I didn't want to forget, but with the '98 cams, one of the benefits - again - are the larger 12mm bolts compared to 10mm from '01-'04. As already mentioned, the Mini Cooper 12mm set is perfect, and offer some extra length compared to a Mustang-specific bolt. Additionally, these can be torqued down to 125 ft/lbs (off the top of my head) once the timing is set, so the cams won't be going anywhere. Just for reference, here is a new bolt & washer compared to a 10mm Ford bolt and matching washer - quite the difference:

Again, if you go the same route as I have, you can get four of the bolts through Summit (without the washers) and then you add two specific 7/16" ID washers that will be drilled out to fit the new bolts. You only need two washers since the hub of each Cloyes primary gear takes the place of that washer.

On to those gears, they are obviously specific to each side. Unlike the stock photo I used in post #35, these gears are solid, which is also shown in the Cloyes ad. The drivers side gear has the tab on the front for the cam position sensor unlike the passenger side, but more importantly, they have different flanges on the back which allow them to mate properly to the appropriate secondary sprocket. If you happen to mix those up, it will become evident when you try to tighten the bolt and find that the gear does not sit flush to the cam face. Here's how they look from the back just for general reference:

Another nice feature, other than them being ridiculously solid billet steel, are the cam locating pins. They have to align in the keyway of the cam, yet can still be adjusted 5° either way. Once the set screws and the cam bolt is tightened, they are definitely not moving! This is a larger blow-up from Cloyes, but worth showing while I keep giving this gear set props!

Mounting these gears is real simple, and like the secondary set, you wrap the chain with the locating link adjacent to the timing dot on the gear, then slip the chain over the crank sprocket with its timing mark lined up with the correct link. The driver's side goes on first. Here's that gear mounted up (also showing the ARP bolt):

The chain is obviously on the crank gear before you move on to the passenger side, but both line up the same way on the bottom (I marked the dot just to see it easier). These next two pictures show the other primary gear, as well as a close-up of the crank gear, also with its bolt and washer loosely in place:

From here, you are in the home stretch and slip on each tensioner arm followed by their tensioners (they are side-specific, by the way!). It's simple, but just in case, here is a tech drawing of them that won't leave any doubt as to where they go:

Also, when it comes to the intake cams, there will be a spacer that slips on to the cam, followed by the washer and bolt. If you goofed and got the secondary gears on incorrectly, you won't have made it through the installation of the primary gears, but here is how it all looks from the top (showing the passenger side this time):

The cam bolts are all installed finger-tight for now, and at this point, I'm back to post #1 with the long-block all together. Note in the picture that the pins have not been pulled from the primary tenstioners. Once the degreeing process is started, if the primary gear needs to be slipped off to access the secondary cam sprocket, there is enough slack in the chains to allow this, but the chains are tight enough to maintain accuracy (some guys use clamps on the chain(s) when setting the cams).

When the cams are all in position and it's time to prepare for the timing cover installation, the pins will come out. Now, I take a break, but soon enough, I'll document the process of getting these cams dialed in. If any random - and important - thoughts pop in to my head from now and until then, I'll be sure to share them.