i only take my built motor to 6200, however i am using a stock crank. wonder if i should spin it up higher...

 

I mean, if you have cams, heads, intake or anything that raises the powerband then yes.

with the stock h/c/i theres no point..but with this new edelbrock intake, my powerband keeps going to 6500 easy

 

i have blower cams, but the stock intake

 

Gotcha, well you should definitely be able to make power till 6500 rpms or so with cams.

I mean, the true test is the dyno sheet.

Ever think of throwing an edelbrock victor jr intake on top of that?

You would pick up a ton of power from 4-6500 rpms I bet, may even be able to rev the thing closer to 7k.

It started making lots more power with my stock motor and pretty low boost levels up high 4500 and on.

I would love to see what it would do with some more boost and blower cams vs the stock PI intake.

 

i may at some point, but for now i'm flat broke lol

 

haha,
yea I understand.

Have you had the car on the dyno ? got a dyno sheet?

 

ya i did but they aren't handy at the moment, i need to post them up i suppose.

 

Personally, I wouldn't go higher than stock redline on a stock bottom ened. The higher the RPM the higher the stress on the rods, which are junk to begin with. I am running a fully built motor with a steel crank and I am still only turning it to 6200. If you don't have the cash for a new bottom end, i wouldn't even think of changing it.

 

Yea, ill probably keep it at 6200 or so. Would rather not throw a rod through the block

 

Look at the 3v or even the 96-98, 01 Cobra's, they have the same rods and junk pistons and can rev to 6500-7000, yes i know the Cobras have a forged crank, but the rods are not. I have a buddy with a 98 Cobra, stock longblock and launchs at 7k all day. Theres no reason the 2v can't rev that high if the power is there. I am building a NA 2v now, based off a 3v shortblock with 2v TFS heads, cams and an Edelbrock intake, i plan to spin to about 6800.

 

The more valves (in this situation)....enable the engine to live better at higher RPM and power.

Example: 2V's are risky over 400rwhp....as to where the 3V and 4V can handle 450-480rwhp safely.

The more efficient an engine, the easier it is on parts. Even power for power.

I agree, I would not take the 2V past the factory limit with boost. With not boost, I would take it past that point in a heartbeat.

 

Well what about if you made the 2v flow better up top?

I mean a 2v with heads/cams/intake would probably flow just as good as a 3v or 4v right?

My car just has an intake manifold on top of which is letting it make power to 6500+ but I still dont really feel comfortable revving it that high haha. It doesnt feel right.

 

It depends on a lot. Chamber efficiency, cfm, velocity. Hard to say.

But generally, a more efficient engine will make more power safely.

 

last time i was at the track i was crossing the line having to shift to 4th. luckily my tuner was there had him turn the limiter to 6800 and i let her eat until third gear synchro finally gave out after three years of grinding on hard shift. my setup is a posi ported eaton on 5.5 pounds with long tubes and comp 270 cams. my power band keeps goin up in the rpms on the dyno but we never pushed it that high. im also still on the stock short block as of right now. i also ran the car 20 times that day and hot lapped it many times.

 

Is your car a stick? You should most definitely be in 4th gear if you've cams and almost 6psi. If you're an auto you wouldn't need to be revving it out that high in 3rd gear unless you have like a 4.30 gear.

 

i think what he means is the higher the cfm the less boost required for a given horsepower=less internal strain on a motor. at least that's my thoughts.

 

I feel like my car starts to break up in the upper RPMS at like 6200-6300...

either my car is attempting to shift or maybe i need to change my spark plugs lol

 

One other thing that you might want to consider besides the rods is the oil pump. The powdered metal gears tend to shatter at high RPM.

 

Hmm, I think im gonna shatter a piston, bend a rod, put a fist sized hole in the block, and shatter the gears at the same time

 

i shift my car around 6100-6200. stock bottom end,mhs stage 2 heads ,270 comps,bbk intake ,70mm tb,procharger disc with power pipe.10lbs of boost.run a best of 7.40 @97 mph in the 1/8th stock suspension with h&r lowering springs

 

Nice, sounds like your making a good bit of power.

What kinda rwhp you making?

My car went 7.25@ 97 mph in the 1/8th...but that was with stock longblock 4.6 and a s trim pushing 10 psi at 6k rpms, shifting at 6200 rpms.

 

450 rwhp 448 ftlbs needs more gear and im fighting belt slip with the 6 rib setup.i figure with tubular front end,8 rib ,and 4.10s i can get 6.90s-7.0s.the boost falls off terrible on the shifts

 

nice,

I just swapped to a 8 rib setup. Didnt really make a difference for me, but at least the belt seems to stay on track now.

You should be able to get there

 

hey if it blows it blows lol. with my tire and gear i was having to shift too close to the end of the track. so i took it up higher in every gear and turned my best time.

 

My buddy's marauder only made like 450 rwhp on 14-15 psi

 

hell i only made 433 on 5 psi

 

What setup

 

Tork tech with posi ported blower,elbow, throttle blade. Comp 270 cams, and long tubes.

 

Made 400rwhp on 6 lbs on my 2v setup here. That was on a bone stock motor.

Ported heads and a built motor later I still shift under 6500. It's just not worth the extra strain the higher rpm exacts on the motor.

 

i was revving my car to 6500 and running 11.3 with my stock longblock, stock auto w/ converter, and v1 s-trim. Ended up floating valves into the pistons as I had PTV marks on like 5 pistons from the intake valves. Now I try to keep it @ 6200 or so but my limiter is @ 6700 for tire spin