[Juiced46]

Thanks for the info Ed. I am pretty confident I am going to switch the setup to a dead head. I would rather take my chances with the regulator failing with the dead head and have the benefits of the fuel not being heated.

I was wondering about the balance tube and your info further confirmed my thoughts

My plan right now is to mount the regulator into the inner fender (not sure which side yet) and Y off of the regulator and feed the rails at the front and crossover at the back.

The last concern which you touched on a bit, the boost reference... I will be running a Sullivan intake and will reference boost directly from the intake to the regulator. Will there be any issue with length of the vacuum hose from the back of the intake to regulator at the inner fender?

 

[Juiced46]

damn my tuner told me to delete it before i got it tuned.
no problems but i like the sounds of "runs better"
i still have it, what will have to be done to put it back on ?

If your rails have an FRPS port just reinstall it. If not some companies sell an adapter like Aeromotive etc

 

[Juiced46]

I first ran a dead head setup without a crossover line and had issues going lean on one bank. Put the crossover on and it cured my problem, car has been running great since then. My FPR is in the fender. As Ed pointed out, make sure you include a crossover line if going dead head.

I will be doing the crossover for sure. My plan at the moment is to feed the front of the rails and crossover at the back. i will also be mouting the FRPS on the crossover in the rear. I will be running a Sullivan intake and have a few ideas on the routing that I want to run. I have seen your car at the Pike a few times, it sounds good! Hopefully I will be back up there this year with my Cobra, if not I will be there in my M3.

I have my car configured in a deadhead setup and love it. Originally I had mine setup in the "conventional" return system where the regulator was post fuel rails. I can tell you this builds a ton of heat in your fuel. My fuel pressure was darn near capable of branding you after the car had run any real length of time.

After converting to a dead ead setup I can hold the filter in my hand after running the car hard...its a night and day difference. Malcolmv8 reduced his temperatures over 100degrees by going deadhead. You can see his thread here
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum.../forums/showthread.php?1030180-I-drastically-dropped-my-fuel-temps-by-over-100F

Originally I didn't have a cross over in my fuel rails and my fuel pressure seemed to see rather large spikes when transitioning in and out of heavy throttle usage (7-9psi maybe). Whatever the number was it was much larger than what I was use to in my "conventional" return setup, I decided to add a front crossover and this dropped the spikes down to 1-2psi when messing with the throttle.

In an effort to give my regulator the best boost/vacuum reference signal I used DOT hard plastic air line. This is similar to the stuff that Ford used on our vacuum harnesses from the factory. The stuff is durable, cheap (under $1.00ft) and best of all you can make solid quick connections with it. Its the same stuff Semi-trucks use on their air systems operating at over 120psi.
Here is a link
https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/20914/

My local carquest carried it and for under $10 I had my FPR plumbed in with it.

I can't comment on if tuners don't like it as I self tune but if I can do it I'd think any professional could.

Good to know. I planned on converting my complete vacuum setup to hardline and ditching all of the rubber hose on my new build.

Im in the process of converting from the conventional Dead head to the method mentioned in here as well with the FPR in the fender. Anyone got a picture of their setup on the car? what kind of special fitting is required for the front left rail that receives the fuel from the regulator and also has a equalizer line running to it?

Do you want pictures of the Conventional style where you feed the rails first or do you want pictures of a dead head where you feed the rails after the regulator?

 

[Juiced46]

No one? I know the engine bay isn't ideal with the heat but seems to be the best option.

I found a spot on the driver side inner fender well. You can fab up a bracket and fit it right beneath where a cold air kit will go through the fender. There is also a hole there so you can still access the top of the regulator so you do not have to remove the wheel well liner.

 

[Juiced46]

I put mine here and I dont use the inner fenders.

Do you happen to have any pictures of your car done from the side @ ride height with wheels on and no liners? I was thinking of leaving mine out as well just trying to gauge if it will be obvious and look bad.

 

[Juiced46]

Just took this one. Is it close enough.

Thanks. I just was not sure if when the car is sitting at ride height you can see all the crap in the fender. That does not look bad at all

 

[Juiced46]

Most of your standard regulators use a 3/8" port or -6an. The larger regulators use a 1/2" on the return side. Ideally, you want the 1/2" return port. If you run smaller you may see a fuel pressure "droop" then stabilize when going WOT.

 

[Juiced46]

As I stated this regulator has all -10 "ports". However, the actual drilled hole that the returned fuel flows through, is only .140 dia. This is my concern

Have you actually measured the drilled hole in the return port on your regulator? I would bet it's not as large as one expected, ie 1/2" or 3/8".

Anyone have a good quality regulator laying around that can measure the return hole diameter?

ks

I can measure my fuel lab regulator tomorrow since its off the car. It has a 1/2" return. However, I am pretty sure it does not have a small .140" hole like yours as. When I go to my shop I will take a look.

 

[Juiced46]

I did not measure it but snapped a pic of the inside of my Fuel Lab regulator.