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Whipple, Tune, and other goodies :)

1.2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  FordRacing  
#1 ·
Just got my car back today. Only made two pulls since I had some SERIOUS clutch slip. We decided to let me break it in some more and bring it back in about 500 miles or so. If it is still slipping, we are calling Spec and having them send us a 3+ (have a 2+ now) and paying the difference for the 3+.

Here are the mods:
- Whipple H.O. 10psi Kit with the new Gen II rotors (sees around 11.5-12psi)
- Hooker Long Tube headers (has a small leak, I'm guessing the installer didn't align them right or there is a small tear in the gasket since shifty had no issues with them when he had them)
- Hooker off road x pipe
- Bassani Race Axle Backs (sound amazing with the x pipe)
- GT500 fuel pump, 39# injectors, HT0 spark plugs
- Spec Stg 2+ clutch and steel flywheel
- CHE K member w/ tq limiters (so i can shift into third and not a brick wall...tommy will know what I'm talking about)
- BMR adj panhard bar

I have 4.10 gears but with 28" tires I have an effective gear ratio of 3.92

Here is the graph:
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In the AFR box, the bottom two lines are the AFR, perfectly flat at 11.7-11.8.

The other two lines are my effective gearing. They are supposed to be smooth humps but you can see they are squiggly. Where they drop down suddenly is clutch slip and where they level out is it grabbing. The first instance of this is at 4500. You can see it on the hp/tq curves as a little hump/blip in the graph. At around 5000rpms it shoots WAY up...MASSIVE clutch slip (I hope I got that right, James... if not, correct me lol). Decided to call it a day and let me drive on it for a while (has a safe tune in it) and come back when I have some more miles on it and retune and go from there.

So with some crazy clutch slip, I'm pretty happy with my 459/455 SAE corrected numbers :) Hopefully with a grabbing clutch I'll make my goal of 480rwhp and 470ft-lbs :dance4:

I would like to add that James did a GREAT job tuning the car and the ONLY problem we had was the header leak that I'm going to get figured out here in the next day or so.
 
#2 ·
Pictures of the setup and dirty car:
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Relocated IAT sensor in the first runner instead of behind the whipple. We did it this way just incase when you tilt the motor for a clutch swap it doesn't mess it up. Also, it's easier to get to if it does happen to go bad :) To the right is the T setup that Ryan (installer) used for the FP gauge.

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Idles at 29psi...is that low or is that right? I thought it was supposed to read 39psi since I have 39# injectors but I could be wrong...
 
#3 ·
Great #'s. She's a beast:rock: Install looks really nice too.

Your fuel pressure is fine, 30psi at idle is about right. The pressure should increase parallel to boost when under load. The reason is because the injectors must maintain an effective fuel pressure at all times to atomize the fuel properly. When you build boost, you basicly have 10psi of pressure pushing back on the injectors from the other direction. The increase in pressure is to counteract this, and allow the injectors to still se about 30psi comming through.
 
#4 ·
Nice setup.... Congrats on the numbers!
 
#8 ·
Here's some upgrades that will get you more HP/TQ. This mod is from ST Motorsports (909) 388-2536.
Oh my; can the CAI be used with the stock whipple setup?
 
#6 ·

Video of the tune. You can tell the clutch slips on the last pull heh
 
#7 ·
30psi at idle means you are pulling about 9psi at vacuum at. What the ECU shoots for is a 39psi positive pressure difference between the pressure in the intake and the pressure of the fuel. In a boosted car if you show 10psi of boost on your gauge you will see 49psi of fuel pressure to equal that 39psi delta. If you have 20psi of boost you will show 59psi again to get that 39psi delta.