[BlueScreen]

Thanks for chiming in: it does seem that 85 ft/lbs is the magic number for the 2000 studs, and I'm sure I'll be content with that figure. Hope you don't mind me borrowing that picture - that was another one that was similar, but couldn't find it and figured yours would work just as well. Glad you were able to add some more to this for everyone's benefit!

No problem, I don't mind anyone using my pictures. They are there for everyone to see my mistakes, and save a few from doing them.
Also, here's the original thread in case someone wants more details: http://www.modularfords.com/threads/173453-Broke-some-ARP-studs

 

[eutynem]

Well done write up

 

[sparky1562]

Wow! I will definitely be referring back to this thread when i get to this point in my build! Thanks for all the detail!

 

[jrgoffin]

One additional comment on the Teksid and WAP gaskets for the oil and water manifold on the driverside of the block. These things can get tricky. If you have any doubt lay the gasket up against the block and visually check before buttoning things up.

The gasket on the right with the provision for a taller water inlet is the WAP block gasket and also the 99 Teksid block gasket.

The gasket on the left with the shorter water inlet is the pre-99 Teksid gasket and also a variety of iron blocks.

Ed

Thanks for adding that tidbit, Ed. I wasn't aware of differences in the earlier Tesksid blocks, but there is no doubt the best way to ensure the match is to just line them up. I knew the larger one would work fine, but no sense in not verifying it while the project is ongoing!

Well done write up

Wow! I will definitely be referring back to this thread when i get to this point in my build! Thanks for all the detail!

Thanks for the comments! Will be probably adding little details here and there before I get on to the next step.

 

[04DeadShort]

Dont forget to check your valve lash.

 

[jrgoffin]

Dont forget to check your valve lash.

That, and PTV - all part of what will go in to the degreeing process.

 

[jrgoffin]

Something else to add, and jumping a bit ahead, is a minor quirk of the aluminum block: the front cover compatibility. Actually, the Terminator cover fits fine on the aluminum 4.6 blocks, but there is one bolt hole - adjacent to the water pump - that is out of place. The exception here is the actual FRPP-sourced block: they pre-drill this hole and add a plug for you in the other. The picture below shows the front of my Aluminator (again, scored from a 3V GT, but still the same block) with a red dot marked where the one offending bolt hole lines up on the Terminator cover:

The bolt hole below it, and to the left (looking at it from the front) does not get used. So far, I have just added a small Allen-head set screw to fill it. For reference, here is the timing cover with the open bolt hole circled, which most just fill with RTV to seal:

All that being said, if you decide that filling it with RTV is not something that appeals to you, it is entirely possible to drill and tap for a bolt (a plastic plug or even a set screw tapped in to just the cover is also an easy option). Oddly enough, the FRPP timing kit (M-6004-A464) actually does include the CORRECT bolt for that position. Here's where you have to pay attention: that bolt is app. 40mm in length whereas the others are 53mm. If you use the cover to line up the hole for drilling and tapping, you do not drill it to the same depth as the others or you will drill through in to the coolant passage!! Also, take in to account that the timing cover is about 28mm thick there, so you'll only be drilling about 12mm.

Here are the two pages from the FRPP kit instructions that show that bolt position again (purple triangle, #5), along with the list of bolts that get used:

The lone 40mm bolt is W705128-S437, and if you look it up in the Ford parts system, it actually comes up as an SUV oil cooler bolt. Fortunately, it is still available if you decide to use it, and it's only about $2. Since I'm still deciding whether or not to drill and tap the one on my block, I also realized that I can bolt the Cobra Engineering tensioner arm dowel drill plate to one of the water pump bolt holes and get it to line up where I need it. An option for sure, but no action taken as of yet.

As another FYI, here are the bolts in question. From left to right: 53mm, 40mm, and 40mm oil cooler bolt (the same ones I have for my Aluminum block). It appears that Ford updated the bolt since one has a 10mm hex and the other is 13mm, but I'm not sure which one is newer. Also, the thread pitch is 8mm-1.25. The one in the FRPP kit has the 13mm hex, but both will work if you decide to use it. Again, don't drill too deep or you will break in to the coolant passage!!

 

[04DeadShort]

And once again, more great info. This thread along with a few others is gonna be all I need to build my Teksid with confidence.

 

[JamesHell]

Great write up.
I wouldn't sweat getting that hole perfectly straight.
But if you have a little time I could make a quick drill fixture for that.

 

[jrgoffin]

Great write up.
I wouldn't sweat getting that hole perfectly straight.
But if you have a little time I could make a quick drill fixture for that.

Thanks, James. A jig for that hole would be another cool product from you, otherwise, there is a bit of slop in the timing cover to center punch it first.

I'm in no hurry since I won't be degreeing the cams for another month or so (am under orders from Ed to have him on the phone for adult supervision!) and won't be dropping this engine in until sometime over the winter. Thanks again!

 

[Wicked46]

James, that's not a bad idea. As Joe pointed out, theres a bit of slop in the timing cover - even with all of the bolts threaded in. It's not something critical like the timing guide pins but would help some of us out. I'm still trying to track down an aluminum block for my build so if you need someone to try out a new fixture, let me know.

Joe - Great info once again. As mentioned, I still can't find a block to get going on mine but i'm starting to acquire some necessary parts that I need. This thread is going to help me out a TON.

 

[jrgoffin]

Another suggestion, Jon: see if you could score a long-block from an '05 Aviator. That engine did get the DC heads from Ford, and chances are, you could get a Nemak block in the process. Of course if you are set on Teksid, this is irrelevant. Worst case, there still may be a lot of the blocks in yards from wrecked 3V Mustangs, too!

 

[Wicked46]

I'm leaning towards buying a short block or long block and selling the parts that I don't need. I just didn't want to deal with the hassle of selling heads and a bottom end out of another engine but this may be my only option right now

 

[IWRBB]

Another suggestion, Jon: see if you could score a long-block from an '05 Aviator. That engine did get the DC heads from Ford, and chances are, you could get a Nemak block in the process. Of course if you are set on Teksid, this is irrelevant. Worst case, there still may be a lot of the blocks in yards from wrecked 3V Mustangs, too!

I will be pulling heads/engines from Aviators as soon as they start showing up in the local u pull it yard... Haven't seen one yet, but their time is coming soon. 10 years old, a minor crunch will total them.

 

[jrgoffin]

I will be pulling heads/engines from Aviators as soon as they start showing up in the local u pull it yard... Haven't seen one yet, but their time is coming soon. 10 years old, a minor crunch will total them.

Be sure to check the casting numbers: the Aviator all kinds of different heads from '03-'05 and the two different blocks. With the 4V head inventory drying up, it may be worth grabbing this stuff!

Here's this link again with all the info: Castings

 

[jrgoffin]

Another worthwhile bit of info pertaining to the timing chains and tensioners...

As mentioned, three of the four tensioners are positioned to put pressure on the slack, or "non-driven" side of the chains, with the passenger secondary being the exception. Fortunately, the kit from James takes care of this and with a swap of the internal parts from the OEM part, you have a new one that corrects this.

Here again is the link from Cobra Engineering that also contains an additional link back here showing how easy it is to make the modification:

http://cobraengineering.net/tensioner.html

Just for the heck of it, I took one of the original diagrams from the Romeo build manual and tweaked it to make this more clear. If you are degreeing your cams and want to be precise as possible with the timing, hit up James for one of these tensioner bodies!

Here, again, is the new tensioner mounted on the passenger side head with the plunger facing UP. It's a work of art!

 

[04Ryan]

On my Teksid, I decided I didn't want to drill and tap that timing cover hole. So I cut a bolt short and RTV'ed it into the timing cover to plug the hole. While still appealing to my OCD that I didn't have an empty bolt hole. Or one that looked like it was simply full of RTV LoL

See you can't even tell! 823 miles later she's dry as a bone! No oil leaks

 

[jrgoffin]

On my Teksid, I decided I didn't want to drill and tap that timing cover hole. So I cut a bolt short and RTV'ed it into the timing cover to plug the hole. While still appealing to my OCD that I didn't have an empty bolt hole. Or one that looked like it was simply full of RTV LoL

Another good idea. Fortunately for the Terminator crowd, that bolt and the hole will be hidden behind the pulley bridge, but it will still drive plenty of us nuts knowing it is there!

 

[P49Y-CY]

awesome thread, joe, thank you! great reference material for the future :beer:

 

[jrgoffin]

NP, Chris - it's been a great build, glad to share!

Going to get moving on this part soon...