[Wicked46]

That thought did cross my mine, especially since I saw a harness end on eBay for $20. Since the new connector might be available for less than that, might grab one of those. If I decide to do this, just have to pick up some bulk wire (20 Gauge GXL like in Jon's up there) and pins, then it really should be a straightforward job. I mentioned to Ed that it may warrant another Build Thread, albeit a small one, but this could work out great for anyone that is willing to do it themselves.

Hmmm, with your links, I may have to pick up a few of these for a little DIY. I work in the electronics field and have access to some really nice tools (and material) to get the job done.

 

[jrgoffin]

Hmmm, with your links, I may have to pick up a few of these for a little DIY. I work in the electronics field and have access to some really nice tools (and material) to get the job done.

Once you acquire both ends, the wire, and pins, it really looks to be a no-brainer. Even better, you can customize the length. If you have a source for the pins, great, but I also shot John @ J&S an e-mail to see if he had any suggestions.

 

[jrgoffin]

Doing a bit more scrounging about these PCM connectors, and managed to acquire a tech drawing of the harness end connector from the OE supplier. The one I was able to get my hands on is the version with the engineering number that ends in -AB (F5SB-14A464-AB), but it looks to be identical to the -AA version that Jon has. These can be had for about $5 each from thew company that I linked a couple of posts back, but with a lot of these places, you have to place a minimum order (it's only $25 with them, so that isn't as extreme as many).

The drawing is two pages with info on all the pins as well, but here is a screen shot of part of it just for reference (it definitely has 104 pins still):

Also, here are the pins used for the COP's (circled in black) and switched power (circled in blue) as an FYI. On the left side, from top to bottom, it's 6-5-4-8, and to the right also from top to bottom, 1-3-7-2. Switched power is pin 71.

I'll have the chance to stop by my local Ford dealer tomorrow to ask what may be available through them, but if they charge a ridiculous amount for one, it may be worth snagging several through the other source and passing them on to guys here that may want to try this. Since these plugs really are inexpensive, and bulk wire shouldn't be that pricey, it is entirely possible to build one of these yourself for much less than what they are available for out there. Now it's just a matter of verifying the pins, and hopefully John (and Jon!) will have some details there shortly.

If this all seems to be too much of a pain in the neck, I'll just use the connectors that John supplied with the Vampire and splice them in. It's still probably going to take some effort to wrestle with the wire bundle, but if someone really wants to build this extension, at least the options may be out there.

 

[BLK_03]

Is their enough room behind our kick panels for one of these extension harnesses?

There is.

 

[jrgoffin]

There is.

Completely forgot to touch on that. It's a real pain working the computer out, but there is a nice void down there that should make it easy enough to feed the additional wiring in. I'll hopefully get some pictures soon, but still working on the details of this DIY harness.

 

[Wes Duenkel]

You can always look at the engineering number stamped on the bottom of the pan, which I believe was XR3E-6675-DB. If it's that pan, you just have a mystery of what they did with regards to making the windage tray work. If you aren't wanting to pop it off, I'd say just give FRPP a shout and hopefully they can tell you. Will be interesting to know!

I just did, and Steve said,

"Now that I think about it, the Only thing 3 Valve in this engine is the block. There is nothing 3 Valve about the block either, it is just the block we use, because it was a newly upgraded Modular aluminum block, with strength on the same plane as the old Texsid blocks."

So I'm thinking: they just used 4V Cobra windage tray, pickup, and pan. Is there any reason that they could NOT use all the 4V cobra stuff with the Aluminator block?

 

[jrgoffin]

I just did, and Steve said,

"Now that I think about it, the Only thing 3 Valve in this engine is the block. There is nothing 3 Valve about the block either, it is just the block we use, because it was a newly upgraded Modular aluminum block, with strength on the same plane as the old Texsid blocks."

So I'm thinking: they just used 4V Cobra windage tray, pickup, and pan. Is there any reason that they could NOT use all the 4V cobra stuff with the Aluminator block?

They probably just made it "easy" by staying with the short windage tray so there were no pan modifications required. Then again, that tray mounts to the main caps differently, so I don't know if the 4V version would line up correctly in the first place. There is probably only one way to find out, unless you are able to turn up someone who has already torn one of these down and knows what was there.

 

[jrgoffin]

Had a chance to fiddle with the PCM connectors for a bit this afternoon and found them fairly easy to work with. The one for the computer end (with the bolt) is one that was hacked off a junkyard car, so some of it was pretty brittle, which means it will become scrap. I have four new ones coming, and those should be here Monday. If this turns out easy enough, I can probably make a few more of these and sell them off, or let someone snag the components from me if they want to build their own.

The female end from the previous page is one I got on eBay. The vendor showed that he had 43 available, but the auction wasn't up the last time I checked. In any case, this end can also be removed from any scrap PCM. The pins just pull right out after the two small covers that secure them are lifted off. Here is the connector showing one cover lifted off with one of the pins removed (they are an interference fit and pull right out):

I think the pins I can use to replace these will look like this (in a photo and drawing), but until I get my hands on them, I won't be sure. These pins and at least the PCM connector (shown in Post #483) are made by Tyco, by the way.

From what I saw in Jon's picture of the harness he bought, the pins for this end will be a real tight fit. This would also mean that each of the 104 holes here will need to be drilled out slightly so the wires will feed in. If the pins above are not the correct ones, I'll figure that out soon enough and hopefully will be able to make this worthwhile.

Here is the junk PCM end that I pulled apart, and it's a cinch to work with. The new ones I acquired are coming with the female pins, and once they are crimped on (using Molex pliers), they pop right in.

In the picture above, the cap on the end that covers the blue rubber gasket is not shown since it cracked in half as I was pulling it off (easy to do when there are wires in the way!). If you are fitting the wires in the bare end, they will slide right through the gasket, then the cap will snap in to place. Here is the other end, without its cap, showing all the pins:

This is what the pin looks like on the wire when it is pulled out (did this to verify that I'll be getting the correct ones):

As an FYI, the original pins from the PCM fit like this (you can see the small barbs on the pin that gives it the interference fit in the plastic). Fortunately, the connectors slide together very easily, so there isn't much of a chance that one of these pins would push back out:

Here is a picture of that end as well as a drawing (the pins in this case are shown as four on a tree that obviously have to be snipped off):

I'll have a bit more on this probably next week, and if it works out, I think these harnesses can definitely be a DIY project for about $50 and an hour or so of labor.

 

[04DeadShort]

It will take more time be a little aggravating but I recommend putting a small shot of solder on each pin after they are crimped. That small cup between the pin and the crimp joint is a perfect spot. This will offer the connectivity and conductivity of each circuit. The wire will break before the solder fails if done right.

 

[John@J&S]

IXNAY, IXNAY.

Yes, the wire will break before the solder fails. Because of the solder. The wire must be allowed to flex where it exits the pin.

Use the correct crimper for a gas tight seal between the wire and the contact.

 

[Helomech74]

Those are the same kind of pins I used when I built the harness for my race car and recently the harness for my new fuel tank. I used the S&G 18980 master crimper set, worked like a champ and comes with lots of various jaws to swap out for different connections.

 

[jrgoffin]

IXNAY, IXNAY.

Yes, the wire will break before the solder fails. Because of the solder. The wire must be allowed to flex where it exits the pin.

Use the correct crimper for a gas tight seal between the wire and the contact.

I'm with John on this one. No soldering necessary if the correct crimping tool is used.

Those are the same kind of pins I used when I built the harness for my race car and recently the harness for my new fuel tank. I used the S&G 18980 master crimper set, worked like a champ and comes with lots of various jaws to swap out for different connections.

They are pretty similar to what I used not too long ago to build the harness for my Recaro seats: all Molex connectors that function the same way. The crimping pliers are simple, but they definitely work. Also using them to make a small harness for the gauges going up on the A-pillar.

Here's the one I have (this place is also a great source for wiring, connectors, etc.):

http://www.parts-express.com/crimp-...093-pins-24-14-gauge--092-580?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

 

[Wicked46]

I'd be interested in buying your inventory to make a few of these

 

[jrgoffin]

I'd be interested in buying your inventory to make a few of these

Providing these "-AB" connectors are an exact match, if I keep the one, you can just have the other three, Jon. These guys had a minimum order of $25, so four connectors and the female pins covered it, which was not a big deal. If there are guys that want one of these and don't feel like building it themselves, you could have a nice side-venture. Once I have the correct male pin (I think it has a 0.040" diameter, but I'll double-check), I will be able to put a final list together of what will go in to them!

 

[4vFoxx]

I might be interested in buying one of these extension harnesses

 

[jrgoffin]

I might be interested in buying one of these extension harnesses

Jon might be the man to talk to there. I probably will build one for myself and hopefully get the information all together for anyone else that may want to tackle it. On that note, the connectors and female pins that were supposed to arrive on Saturday seem to have taken a detour and are temporarily MIA. Hopefully the USPS tracking info will update again tonight, but the box went through Philadelphia on Friday and never left. Will have more as soon as I can on that.

In the meantime, I did accomplish some other electrical projects: wiring up the gauges on the A-pillar, and adding an oil pressure sensor. While I had intended to go with the Speed-of-Sound pod, the wiring on the back of the wideband gauge would have probably made the use of that difficult, if not impossible. Instead, I went with the AutoMeter version, which when painted, still looks pretty decent.

Here's the new setup with the Innovate gauge as well as the Interceptor, both wearing white faces (I had a silver SVT face on the Interceptor when it was on the steering column, but had to choose between black or white now):

Since I went with dual wideband sensors, it meant running the mid-pipe up to a local shop so they could add a sixth bung (this one on the right side now), but that wasn't a big deal. Hopefully it won't be coming back out again any time soon.

The last addition was a much-needed oil pressure sensor, courtesy of AeroForce. Their kit is plug and play since you use one of the existing analog pins on the back of the gauge (they supply the harness for this). You wire it in with a 5V converter (AeroForce also sells it), then basically just plug it in and set up the gauge to read the value. Even easier, there is an un-used port near the factory oil pressure sensor that is perfect for the addition. Since the port is 1/4 NPT, you have to acquire some adapters (the sensor is 1/8 NPT), but that is easy.

All hooked up. The wire was run up under the brake booster and fed through the adjacent wire harness grommet.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the O2 sensors calibrated, program the Interceptor for the oil pressure sensor, then get it set up so it cycles between oil pressure, fuel pressure, coolant temp, and volts. I still have another six or so weeks until it's driving time, but I'm sure the Vampire will be in before that time!

 

[1raresnake]

Btw, did your piston slap go away?

 

[jrgoffin]

Btw, did your piston slap go away?

It did: the engine starts and idles smooth as stock. I think the first start was a little bit tappy since there were still passages that oil needed to reach, but it smoothed out in short order(I cranked the engine with the accelerator to the floor for about 20 seconds to prime it). I'll admit that I was a bit nervous about the "big" PTW, but it turned out perfectly. Now I just have to wait for spring so I can actually get on the road.

 

[jrgoffin]

The other ends of the harness finally made it today, along with the female pins for it. Even with the slightly different engineering number, they fit perfect, and I can't find anything different about them. Here's the stuff all together so far:

I haven't had the chance to look up the male pins (again, 0.040" diameter), but will hopefully work on that soon. If those pan out and I then pick up some bulk wire, I'll most likely make the harnes 8-10" long so it can be tucked in a bit easier. I also got a note from the eBay vendor that they have more of the PCM connectors that are $20 each.

Here they are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/14191965580...hi=&_sadis=15&_stpos=44135-1060&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_nkw=141919655807&_rdc=1

If those eventually run out, the only option will be to pull them off of dead PCM's, but that won't be too hard either. So far, I'm only in to this for about $50 (with the extra harness ends), so I still think these can by built for about that price once the wire is factored in and assuming the other pins can be sourced. Still have about another month or more before the weather starts getting nice up here, and will stay optimistic that this deal and the Vampire installation will be all wrapped up before then.

 

[Wicked46]

Lookin' good Joe