[mvk13]

Hi Ed/All! I'm Mike

 

[eschaider]

A belated welcome aboard Mike.


Ed

 

[POPPAJ]

Jon over here.

 

[jrgoffin]

I better get moving on some updates here since you guys are detouring it all over the place

 

[408Stang]

Getting back on topic.... Are the upgraded timing chain dowel pins really necessary? Or... A better question... When are they necessary and why? Is it a power level thing... A valve spring pressure thing.. An RPM related thing.... Or is it just one of those "good insurance" items like most upgraded bolts?

 

[Wicked46]

Getting back on topic.... Are the upgraded timing chain dowel pins really necessary? Or... A better question... When are they necessary and why? Is it a power level thing... A valve spring pressure thing.. An RPM related thing.... Or is it just one of those "good insurance" items like most upgraded bolts?

I wouldn't say any upgrade is necessary, however, it is cheap insurance and you'll have piece of mind knowing an issue will not come up in the future. if your engine is apart, its definitely a good idea to do!

 

[BLK_03]

Getting back on topic.... Are the upgraded timing chain dowel pins really necessary? Or... A better question... When are they necessary and why? Is it a power level thing... A valve spring pressure thing.. An RPM related thing.... Or is it just one of those "good insurance" items like most upgraded bolts?

I would say yes.

I've had one break (stock) and it was a major pita. If you are in the engine, I think it's silly not to do it.

 

[eschaider]

+1^ What Tony said. The fix is easy now with James drilling/tapping fixture. The cost is small compared to the potential damage depending on what is happening when they break. The stock pins were clearly undersized. New generation engines out of Ford all use 8mm hardware.


Ed

 

[408Stang]

I've decided to do it.... Anyone want to loan me their drilling fixture? ... $130 is a little expensive for something I'm going to use once, or even $80 for the "one time use" fixture.

 

[jrgoffin]

The cost of the one-time use fixture & pins is a small price to pay when you sink huge coin in to these engines. When I used my fixture, I was real careful drilling and could easily get another use (or two, or three...) out of it. Worst case, you could buy one and re-sell it to someone for another use and recover some of the funds.

While you are ordering from James, don't forget the new secondary tensioner for the passenger head, along with a Stewart water pump! All worthwhile items to have on the inside.

 

[408Stang]

I just placed my order with Cobra Engineering for the dowel pins and the multi-use drill fixture.

As for the other parts.. My application is a 3-valve... So no secondary tensioner for me. And I already have the high-flow water pump... So I'm good there too. But great reminders for 4-valve builds.

 

[eschaider]

This tool is one that you will use again with each new block. It really ought to be a permanent part of a tool inventory.


Ed

 

[ultraspeed]

http://www.altronicsinc.com/degree-wheel/digicam-digital-engine-degree-wheel-1.html

This is another great tool for someone doing cams with... Surprised ED has not shared this yet...

 

[jrgoffin]

This tool is one that you will use again with each new block. It really ought to be a permanent part of a tool inventory.

Ed

That is for sure! Along with that there are all the OTC gadgets and about a thousand other things every mechanic should have. If the cars and engines aren't expensive, the supporting tools sure are!

http://www.altronicsinc.com/degree-wheel/digicam-digital-engine-degree-wheel-1.html

This is another great tool for someone doing cams with... Surprised ED has not shared this yet...

Very neat. Looks there is quite the process to master that, but someone may want to give it a whirl. Think I'll be doing it the old fashioned way soon enough though.

 

[eschaider]

Very neat. Looks there is quite the process to master that, but someone may want to give it a whirl. Think I'll be doing it the old fashioned way soon enough though.

That tool is the cat's meow for sure guy's it just costs about $300. Because of th eprice point only I haven't promoted it, but it is very nice.

Ed

 

[Edmisten1]

+1^ What Tony said. The fix is easy now with James drilling/tapping fixture. The cost is small compared to the potential damage depending on what is happening when they break. The stock pins were clearly undersized. New generation engines out of Ford all use 8mm hardware.

Ed

I see that the stock 6mm pins were screw in style on the aluminum blocks only; my OEM iron block had press in pins. How is this addressed?

 

[jrgoffin]

It isn't. The pins in the iron blocks are plenty strong. It's the smaller screw-in versions that are potential weak links.

 

[Edmisten1]

It isn't. The pins in the iron blocks are plenty strong. It's the smaller screw-in versions that are potential weak links.

Very well. Thanks.

 

[408Stang]

My question here is a little off topic, but still close enough.... Here goes:

With regard to the rear main seal on these engines I've seen several debates about what kind to use.. For example rubber, PTFE, Viton, or Teflon.... Thoughts, experiences?

But then there is the debate about the "oil slinger", aka "oil baffle", that came from the factory. Some say the 2-piece, seal & baffle isn't necessary, but I have to believe Ford thought it was necessary for some reason. It looks like the "oil slinger / baffle" is mostly a dust shield for the actual seal itself (like the pinion gear seal and shield set up) . It seems to fit very snugly over the crank and rotate inside the rear seal housing / plate. But I can't find any definitive answers. (Looking for Ed to weigh in here).

Since we are talking about building an engine here I thought I'd look for some discussion on this topic.

Thanks.

 

[Edmisten1]

Does this pertain to both the aluminum blocks and cast iron blocks?