[jrgoffin]

That's about the same price for me... But I also did a tubular K-member and A-arms, and Kooks long tubes and H-pipe... My total is around $10,000 start to finish. That includes specialty tools and the offset of selling other parts and pieces from the old motor.

I consider this a bargain considering a friend of mine did a 2014 GT500 motor in his 2010 GT for $25,000, and that's doing the install himself.... . I make more power, did all the work myself, and spent a LOT less.

There's definitely an expensive k-member underneath as well, along with a whole slew of other stuff that's been done over the years. I basically turned the car in to the version that I consider perfect. All the details in the links in sig from my other sites! Loving the car even more now, just wish the wet weather would get out of here!

Nice, saved that pic for a reference of how much more $$$ I need to finish mine. If you think you are on a budget... you should see my price list lol. I'm even sticking with the cast crank for free. I just picked up a fully finished WAP block .020 over, decked and line honed and only a few hours on the dyno for $300 locally... Got my Cobra intake and low mileage B heads and FRPP shorties for free after selling the stuff they came with. Cast crank is free... Got my entire fully optioned 34k mile Steeda GT with the Novi 2000 for $5500 (bad wrist pin). Craigslist for me or this skrit isn't getting done...

So basically opposite of what you are doing lol. I am going to pony up for the Cobra Engineering stuff tho and obviously new ARP stuff, Stewart pump and 3V oil pump/boundary gears after reading this thread tho. Again, this is legit the most useful thread I have ever read online for real, I'm not just saying that. And I started in Mustang forums all the way back in 2001 on the Corral... #backintheday

CL ftw!

Glad this thread has helped! I was fortunate to have the time to lay out all the details in between updating pages on my own Terminator site, but the writing does take a lot of work. Even though I went the Aluminator/Nemak route, there is still a lot to benefit guys that will use a Teksid or WAP block.

 

[jrgoffin]

Another big - and final - step out of the way today: installation of the Vampire is complete. I didn't get the chance to start the engine and get going on the calibration process, but that is right around the corner. Hopefully within the week, I'll be out on the road playing with it a bit more, so I'll add to this when that is accomplished.

One thing worth mentioning before I start attaching pictures: I never did get around to building the custom PCM harness extension. It actually worked out fine since it is just as easy to use the connectors that John supplies with the unit to piggy-back the wires from his box. While you have to do some reaching and leaning, I'm happy with how it turned out since there really is not a lot of room below the PCM for the extension. If you have a pure race car and are without interior trim, it's probably not a big deal to have some wiring exposed, but for a street car, this works out great and the carpet and trim pieces go back on just fine.

Anyway, you'll be digging around in the passenger foot well (most people put the Vampire under the passenger seat), so the easy way to start is by removing the seat. Begin unhooking the electrical connectors in front of the PCM, which can also be removed from the metal bracket that holds them in place (the more room to work, the better).

This picture shows the bracket removed, and the PCM connector un-bolted (10mm hex bolt):

With the harness disconnected, you'll need to peel off the vinyl tape and also pop off the black plastic cap to make it easier to see which wires you'll be grabbing.

Have the PCM connector diagram handy so you'll be sure of which wires to tap (it is connector C175 from the service manual). Here is a look at the harness end again from Post # 483 (back on Page 33) just in case:

The pins are circled that show the COP feeds as well as switched power. While John states in his instructions that the wires from the Vampire do not need to go in order on each coil, the OCD in me wanted them to correspond correctly. This is also a good idea if you add his gauge since it will then tell you which exact cylinder may have knock. To make it easy, I made a chart that lists the wires from the Vampire that match the PCM connectors (although I labeled them as "ECU" for whatever reason) if you want to mate them in order:

For reference, here is a picture of the box again showing the harness that is appropriately labeled. Also, note on the rheostats that I marked the middle position (arrow tip on each) with some red permanent marker so they will be easy to see when tweaking it. The middle position is at 12 O'Clock on each.

Before I got going, I also wanted to mark switched power (Pin 71), but it will be easy enough to find since the wire is red. From the connector end, it is the pin I circled:

Since I had a spare harness connector handy, it was easy to verify which pins to use for the COPs since they are numbered from the back side (the COPs, again, are all the outer pins at each end - makes it simple). Here's that view minus all the factory wiring:

You just find each "COP control" wire on the harness, and add the taps. Here they are snapped on, including the one for power (note they are staggered to streamline the bundle as much as possible). Don't go too far down since the harness needs to make the bend in order for the plug to fit back in to the computer:

Next up, the wire bundle from the Vampire. I left about three feet extra so I can feed the box on top of the passenger seat while I am adjusting it. Once I put it back under the seat, the extra wire will just coil up under the carpet. Off the top of my head, I only cut a couple of feet off, but left the ground wire at its full length so I would have options as to where I put the connector. The brown and blue wires are not used (the blue is for Nitrous retard) so they are temporarily taped back.

Based on where each tap is on the main harness, I cut the lengths of the Vampire wires so they'd match (takes some trial and error - a better reason to leave the length long in case you have to cut it again!). Here's that end all ready to go:

Before popping the connectors in to their appropriate taps, put a dab of dielectric grease in each (a Q-tip helps). John supplies a small packet, but I had a tube already from Ford so I used that instead. Had I really been thinking, I would have put some in before I snapped them on each wire, but it slipped my mind. In any case, it's a bit of a pain to snap them all in since you don't have a lot of room to work, but they'll eventually find their place. All done, with the black cap also re-installed on the harness connector:

Also shown in the picture above is the ground wire, which I decided to mount at the harness ground right below. Here's the whole bundle wrapped back up with all the connectors in place (the green ground screw is at the bottom). John does say to find a "good chassis ground", so he may jump on me for using this one, but it worked just fine. The harness bundle is a bit bulkier now, but since it's just covered by carpet, you won't even know it has been modified.

One last minor step: attaching the vacuum line for the boost retard (it will be plugged and disconnected from the Vampire while you are getting the unit set). I had the Kenne Bell Hobbs switch tapped in previously to the line for my boost gauge, but never ended up using it, so out it came. John does supply a nice tee and connector, but I had previously placed a new tee in the line and just pulled off the KB switch and popped the new tube on. Here's what came out, with John's tee shown for comparison:

The vacuum line, by the way, is up above and behind the glove box, so it's easy to access. New line attached, which was routed under the glove box, over towards the center console, where it will feed under the carpet close to the transmission tunnel (it plugs in to a port on the back of the Vampire):

With everything attached, and the carpet set back in place, it was time to power it up to make sure it worked - which it did just fine. When it comes alive, the LED on the box flashes for a few seconds, then goes off. So far, all seems to be well since I was able to snap a picture of it when I turned the key to the ACC position (it's sitting in the slot where the e-brake handle stows, but will be on the passenger seat temporarily as I get it adjusted):

From this point, John lists some steps in his instructions that have you test the knock sensor by tapping it while the engine is running, which is followed by road testing. Stay tuned, and I'll be on that soon enough!

 

[eschaider]

Very nice job, as usual, Joe. It has to feel good to be at the end of the build journey. Tough job to do alone and a long road as those who have gone before you will attest to. Your documentation has been extraordinary, thanks for sharing it wth everyone on the site. It will substantially de-mystify this process and hopefully encourage others to take the same leap. In the end, no one wants their engine to be done correctly more than the owner. Most importantly if they do it themselves, as you have, they not only know how every detail went down but then can be certain in their knowledge that everything was done correctly.

Very nice job, extraordinary documentation. Thanks for sharing with everyone.


Ed

 

[Wicked46]

Thanks for the pictures of the Vampire install Joe. When it comes time to install mine, i'll be sure to refer back to this as a reference. Let us know how the set-up goes.

Are you using the optional gauge or do you plan to datalog? I chose not to use the gauge. John told me there's a 0-5v signal to use so I can datalog with SCT Live Link.

 

[jrgoffin]

Very nice job, as usual, Joe. It has to feel good to be at the end of the build journey. Tough job to do alone and a long road as those who have gone before you will attest to. Your documentation has been extraordinary, thanks for sharing it wth everyone on the site. It will substantially de-mystify this process and hopefully encourage others to take the same leap. In the end, no one wants their engine to be done correctly more than the owner. Most importantly if they do it themselves, as you have, they not only know how every detail went down but then can be certain in their knowledge that everything was done correctly.

Very nice job, extraordinary documentation. Thanks for sharing with everyone.

Ed

Thanks, Ed. It's been a great project and I've been real glad to share all the details. I've appreciated all the additional information that has been added, especially your expertise in all this! Despite some of the heavy lifting, I'm also glad I get to give myself a proverbial pat on the back since it just all went together so well. Each time I run the engine, I'm absolutely amazed at how smooth it is, so I'm definitely eager for the nicer weather to roll in so I can rack up some miles! Glad the tune is real conservative right now, but it should be even more fun once that is really dialed in

Thanks for the pictures of the Vampire install Joe. When it comes time to install mine, i'll be sure to refer back to this as a reference. Let us know how the set-up goes.

Are you using the optional gauge or do you plan to datalog? I chose not to use the gauge. John told me there's a 0-5v signal to use so I can datalog with SCT Live Link.

My pleasure, Jon - I figured you would be glad to see them. Other than being a bit contorted to dig back in to the corner, the install went off without a hitch, so you should be able to knock it out easily as well. No gauge for me right now either, but I did mention to John that I could change my mind (my rationale for wiring each COP in order). I hadn't thought about any data logs, but I can explore that sometime as well if need be.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

So question... did you wind up leaving the intake cams at 12 degrees advanced? I'm being told by multiple ppl that the torque will fall off after 5K, at least for my Centri build. Is it different for a PD blower? Being told to advance the intake no more than 5 degrees.

 

[eschaider]

The 96-98 cams have 204˚ of intake duration while the 03/04 cams have 184˚ intake duration. The 96-98 cams installed 12 degrees advanced will close the intake valve within 3˚*of a stock 03/04 cam But will open the intake 22˚ earlier. This will produce a robust increase in both bottom end and midrange torque with essentially the same top end performance characteristics of the 03/04 cams.

In the end there is no one who is better qualified to decide what you want to do with your engine build than you are. If you feel better phasing your cams differently, then that is what you should do.



Ed

 

[jrgoffin]

So question... did you wind up leaving the intake cams at 12 degrees advanced? I'm being told by multiple ppl that the torque will fall off after 5K, at least for my Centri build. Is it different for a PD blower? Being told to advance the intake no more than 5 degrees.

I did, per Ed's recommendation (see above!), and it worked out real well. From the very few miles I have put on, there is a whole lot of pull in this new engine - couldn't have worked out better. While I was hoping to have the Vampire dialed in this weekend so I could play with the RPM's a bit more, I have to duck out of town unexpectedly and it will have to wait. In any case, I'm real pleased with the cams and how they are set.

 

[Eatonualive281]

What did you end up setting the exhaust cams to?

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

The 96-98 cams have 204˚ of intake duration while the 03/04 cams have 184˚ intake duration. The 96-98 cams installed 12 degrees advanced will close the intake valve within 3˚*of a stock 03/04 cam But will open the intake 22˚ earlier. This will produce a robust increase in both bottom end and midrange torque with essentially the same top end performance characteristics of the 03/04 cams.

In the end there is no one who is better qualified to decide what you want to do with your engine build than you are. If you feel better phasing your cams differently, then that is what you should do.

Ed

See, I'm not the one qualified to be making the decision which is why I ask people who seem to know wth they are talking about. I'm new to the 4V thing and relatively new to the modular thing in general. Seems like a 12 degree advance worked real well on this combo with a PD blower but I have a Centri so I dunno.

 

[jrgoffin]

What did you end up setting the exhaust cams to?

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/236857-Aluminator-Gibtec-build/page12

 

[jrgoffin]

Just a small update between a lot of activity at home and work...

Finally got around to step one of getting the Vampire set up: low RPM verification. This is a two-person job since someone needs to hold the engine RPM just above 1750 or so (I used 2000), while the knock sensor gets "tapped" to simulate knock. With the extra cord fed out, I had the unit sitting on a box adjacent to the passenger door so I could see the LED while I tapped on the sensor with the butt end of a screwdriver.

So far, John's creation works like a charm. As you tap, the LED will start to flicker, then glow, while the engine RPM rolls back slightly. Pretty amazing. The instructions are clear, but just a few items to make sure of when you are at this point.

First, make sure the vacuum port is capped and the line is plugged. Second, set all the DIP switch switches to the up position. If you are not using nitrous (in my case), the main ones to focus on are 1 & 2. In the #1 up, it sets a 20° retard, while down is 10°. Finally, the Sensitivity knob needs to be at Maximum (full clockwise). With the Vampire doing its thing with knock (again, around 2000 RPM), here's the LED fully lit, also showing the position of the knob(s) and switches:

Once you are satisfied that all is well, it's time to get set up for the drive. The Sensitivity knob will go back to the mid-range position, and the #2 DIP switch goes down (the individual cylinder retard position, vs. "all-cylinder" retard when up). This the view when you are ready to hit the road:

I had also taken some time beforehand to re-gap my spark plugs from 0.030" to 0.035" (Denso Iridium IT-22). They were originally at 0.032" which was probably still fine, but I had taken them down slightly thinking it would be necessary for the bump in C/R. That really wasn't the case since the idle got a hair lumpy, but opening them back up a bit seems fine so far. Once I get in to the RPM's, it should become apparent whether this gap will work, but I think it will be fine.

Otherwise, the Vampire showed so far that it really works well, and as stated many times before here, it's a must-have for boosted engines. Hopefully John may chime in here if I leave any details out, but everything is pretty straightforward getting it wired in and running! More to follow.

 

[John@J&S]

Joe:

No need to cap the pot on the back of the Vampire. Just plug the hose to prevent a vacuum leak.

I will refer others to this thread to see how it's done.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Been told by a few ppl that the Vampire is a waste of money and it doesn't always work and seen mixed reviews on forums but like anything on the interwebs its sometimes hard to filter out the actual users from the trolls. Seems like its working well here.

 

[Edmisten1]

Been told by a few ppl that the Vampire is a waste of money and it doesn't always work and seen mixed reviews on forums but like anything on the interwebs its sometimes hard to filter out the actual users from the trolls. Seems like its working well here.

I guess the real question is why didn't these cars come from the factory with knock sensors given the volitility and propensity of gasoline and boost to detonate ... I've read/been told that the harmonics from the supercharger interfered with the knock sensor's ability to perform correctly. Hence, the move to use IAT2's to retard timing in lieu of the sensor. But again, just what I've read/been told so who knows the actual reason SVT skipped it...

 

[eschaider]

Been told by a few ppl that the Vampire is a waste of money and it doesn't always work and seen mixed reviews on forums but like anything on the interwebs its sometimes hard to filter out the actual users from the trolls. Seems like its working well here.

Everyone I have ever met that said the Vampire doesn't work fell into one of two buckets.

Bucket #1 was all the guys who never used one and decided that they think it doesn't work without ever once trying it.

Bucket #2 was all the guys who never took the time to properly install and calibrate the instrument.

I have never found anyone who installed the instrument and correctly calibrated it, that said it didn't work.

If you chase back the didn't work stories, they always seem to lead to the friend of a friend with counter rotating boost that is two doors down and four doors east of the Armenian Camel broker that moved to Venice Beach, California. It is nothing more than internet BS! This tool has been around since the early nineties and is waaaaaay past the debugging stage. It just flat works! If you have a supercharged gas engine and you don't use it, you do so at your own peril.

Ed

 

[04DeadShort]

I agree Ed and there are some people that are quick blame the Vampire for pulling timing when there is no issue. The issue is there, it just hasn't done enough damage YET to be noticeable.

 

[jrgoffin]

Joe:

No need to cap the pot on the back of the Vampire. Just plug the hose to prevent a vacuum leak.

I will refer others to this thread to see how it's done.

Thanks, John. Left the cap on anyway since it was already there. Once the vacuum line was hooked up, all still worked perfectly!

I guess the real question is why didn't these cars come from the factory with knock sensors given the volitility and propensity of gasoline and boost to detonate ... I've read/been told that the harmonics from the supercharger interfered with the knock sensor's ability to perform correctly. Hence, the move to use IAT2's to retard timing in lieu of the sensor. But again, just what I've read/been told so who knows the actual reason SVT skipped it...

The iron block did not have a provision for knock sensors in the intake valley, but they would not fit under the bathtub intake anyway (apparently someone at Ford just didn't feel the need to make them happen). As with the aluminum blocks, those bosses have to be shaved down a bit. Interestingly enough, when Kenne Bell came out with their S/C kit for the '99/'01 Cobra, the OE knock sensors were still retained, just relocated to the block. Sounds like a great idea!

Everyone I have ever met that said the Vampire doesn't work fell into one of two buckets.

Bucket #1 was all the guys who never used one and decided that they think it doesn't work without ever once trying it.

Bucket #2 was all the guys who never took the time to properly install and calibrate the instrument.

I have never found anyone who installed the instrument and correctly calibrated it, that said it didn't work.

If you chase back the didn't work stories, they always seem to lead to the friend of a friend with counter rotating boost that is two doors down and four doors east of the Armenian Camel broker that moved to Venice Beach, California. It is nothing more than internet BS! This tool has been around since the early nineties and is waaaaaay past the debugging stage. It just flat works! If you have a supercharged gas engine and you don't use it, you do so at your own peril.

Ed

^^^^This!!!!

I agree Ed and there are some people that are quick blame the Vampire for pulling timing when there is no issue. The issue is there, it just hasn't done enough damage YET to be noticeable.

^^^^And this!!!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Moving along, and as a relatively final update, I took the car out for another spin and step #2 of the Vampire calibration. As John mentioned in his instructions, the first thing to do here is to get on the highway and turn the sensitivity knob up until any knock may be detected. For me, there was none: the engine was running ridiculously smooth.

Next, the vacuum line gets hooked up and you tweak the boost retard settings (if they are to be used). I decided to go ahead and check this out, but had zero knock when getting in to boost. So far, so good. There's more info in John's instructions, but here's how I left everything set (and maybe John will chime in if additional details are necessary):

Otherwise, this drive was a good time to make a couple WOT pulls, and it's an absolute beast. The AFR with this starter tune is a hair on the lean side (about 12.0:1), but that will be adjusted when I get up on a dyno to see some final numbers soon. Sometime next week, I'll take an hour to move the box back to it's permanent home and consider this process essentially wrapped up. It's been a great project, and I couldn't be more thrilled how well it's running!

 

[John@J&S]

Joe:

get on the highway and turn the sensitivity knob up until any engine noise may be detected.

 

[eschaider]

...

Otherwise, this drive was a good time to make a couple WOT pulls, and it's an absolute beast. The AFR with this starter tune is a hair on the lean side (about 12.0:1), but that will be adjusted when I get up on a dyno to see some final numbers soon. Sometime next week, I'll take an hour to move the box back to it's permanent home and consider this process essentially wrapped up. It's been a great project, and I couldn't be more thrilled how well it's running!

The usual fuel mix today is an E10 pump grade fuel, Joe. The safe zone for fueling with E10 is in the 11.2 AFR range. The 12:1 AFR, if that is in fact what it really is, is potentially damaging on extended WOT pulls. My preference is not to do even the short pulls (I know the tug is powerful) until the tune is finished. Your build is exemplary I would feel terrible if it got accidentally bruised before tuning because of that need to feel the power.

It is hard to do but put a brick under the gas pedal

Ed